Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just bought a new autometer Air/Fuel Ratio gauge and installed it into my rb20det bmw. The gauge shows that i'm running stoich when the car is warm, but it's about 2 led's away from running lean.. Should my car be running in the middle of stoich (12 o'clock)?? When i rev the car, it seems to stay around that same area, it never really enters the lean section, or rich section (though the car has only been running with this new engine for a week, drove it for the first time last night)..

I'm scared even though it's showing stoich, that it's a bit to close to the lean area.

any help appreciated, thanks.

post-30449-1161668499.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140135-what-afratio-is-safe-to-run/
Share on other sites

Your still only using a narrowband oxygen sensor so you will only ever be able to tell if its running lean or rich, not the actual AFRs. I think you'll find it will run around stoich < 3000 rpm because its using the oxygen sensor to stay at stoich (closed loop). If you give it some revs it should drop into the rich section since your running open loop and the stock ECU is very rich. If not your O2 sensor may be screwed.

The standard slow and narrow lambda sensor only sees A/F ratios around stoich. It is too slow and too narrow to record A/F ratios outside that area.

Well buying a useless gauge was a waste of money, wasn't it?

;) cheers :D

you should see the guage bouncing back and forth from rich to lean when in closed loop mode as its aiming to acheive an average afr of 14.7:1.

when you are under high load or wot, it should go into the rich zone and when the de-accelerate it should go lean or off altogether as the injectors are cut off.

the afr gauges are pretty useless, for reasons suggested above.

The stock o2 sensor is pretty useless, the stock ecu uses it when cruising to gradurally lean out the mixture safely, but it's too slow to rely on the readings when doing anything else other than cruising!

If you had a wideband o2........

As far as turbo's go, most tuners aim for 12:1 or 12.5:1, N/a cars can be tuned leaner than that 13:1 - 15:1

i don't recommend tuning it yourself unless you have the equipment and you know what you're doing!!

a turbo car running 14.7:1 on boost is bad news! it is too lean (hot) and you will burn out valves...

the afr gauges are pretty useless, for reasons suggested above.

The stock o2 sensor is pretty useless, the stock ecu uses it when cruising to gradurally lean out the mixture safely, but it's too slow to rely on the readings when doing anything else other than cruising!

If you had a wideband o2........

As far as turbo's go, most tuners aim for 12:1 or 12.5:1, N/a cars can be tuned leaner than that 13:1 - 15:1

i don't recommend tuning it yourself unless you have the equipment and you know what you're doing!!

a turbo car running 14.7:1 on boost is bad news! it is too lean (hot) and you will burn out valves...

Some WRX's hold closed loop until around 8Psi of boost from the factory. And alot of modern cars are now coming out with wideband 02 sensor factory.

The standard slow and narrow lambda sensor only sees A/F ratios around stoich. It is too slow and too narrow to record A/F ratios outside that area.

Well buying a useless gauge was a waste of money, wasn't it?

:( cheers ;)

i find it hard to believe that autometer marks these gauges as "not for use with wideband oxygen sensors" and sells them knowing that they aren't useful. If the 02 sensors output voltage drops to 0 volts, i would see that it's running lean, right? so it would be doing its job in that sense...

They aren't anywhere as accurate as their display would suggest, they should just have three led's rich' lean and stioch, but then they wouldn't sell very many. Neither would they if they made it a proper kit with a wide band sensor and sold it for $800

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...