Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed - R33 Gtst ----high Rpm Popping

Eav00l

By Eav00l,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eav00l Proficient

Eav00l

Posted
Posted

Hi all, as some of you may know i am selling my car due to an knee injury i did snowboarding, the other week i got in my car and noticed when i put my foot flat to the floor at around 5000rpm the car would cough and splatter (almost like it was hitting rev limiter at 5000 not 7000 {but the engine kept reviing to 7000rpm while coughing).

I took it to a mate and he said it could be the AFM being dirty, i got some auto elec contact cleaner and cleaned the contacts... this did not work.

As long as the pedal is not flat to the floor it will act normally but as soon as it hit the floor and 5000rpm it starts playing up.

I was thinking it may be a turbo problem.... is there a way to check wihout pulling it off the car?

Car is as follows

1993 - ECR33. GTST

5 Speed Manual

Front Mount Intercooler

Cold Air Intake

Pod Air Filter

3.5in Exhaust

Turbosmart BOV

It is currently running about 7psi although i did not have a boost guage connected to the vacuum hose for about 3 weeks as i was making a custom mould for it, then when i connected it back up it was reading about 7psi instead of 10psi... same guage same everything just different location... i think the engine problem may have happened around the same time the boodt guage got connected back up....

As the car is still for sale any help would be gratefully accepted.

Thank you....

Craig

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I'm sure Sydney Kid will post soon and clear this up if its wrong.

I have exactly the same problem so have been doing some searching. Seems that R33 GTSt's run extra rich. The problem we could we be having is its running so rich, it splutters and carries on.

As soon as you wack a pod on their, its going to see alot more air, the ecu over compensates and rich and retards like crazy.

Everyone always says coil packs first up, for everything... check them for sure, but I'll put money on it NOT being them.

Check them by pulling them out and see if they look shit for starters ( like cracks or anything ). Then get a work shop manual and work out which pin to the base should have what resistance. I did this ages ago when I was assured I needed to invest in split fires, turned out it wasn't the coil packs at all.

To fix mine, I intend ( when I get paid this month ), to check the afr's and see just how rich it runs on a dyno.

Will check things like O2 sensor, TPS ( as it seems to always be fueling up when I back off and wants to just cruise rather than decel ), then to resolve the problem, either an SAFC or if I feel super keen, full after market ecu so the timing can be controlled aswell as fuel. ( LT12 is what I'm thinking, sorry to stray from powerfc culture... don't hate me)

MR331307 Experienced

MR331307

Posted
Posted
I would be a bit concerned that the boost is reading lower - are you sure you dont have a leak somewhere?

factory boost with and exhaust should be higher than 7psi

What boost u running or what does it say

what spark plugs did u use and what gaps are u running

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

he is around

just doesnt answer as much (at least i think anyway)

given majority of the questions in here have been answered before and a quick search would give u the better answers in the past

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...