Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Liz, thanks for a positive reply. (just realised i keep posting under my b/fs login, lol)

At the moment the car is getting another gearbox put in as the other was rooted... hopefully getting replacement boot and cd player today also.

No drift for me at the moment, but will be learning as soon as there is a prac day at Mallala im sure.. however i know that my car is horrid to drift, no angle at all, needs better handbrake and diff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140325-my-r31/page/2/#findComment-2642567
Share on other sites

If your going to transplant any RB I would start with an RB25DET , they make a lot more torque than an RB20DET and are dimensionally almost the same . If you want to build hybrid RB30DET's thats fine but to do it properly is expensive mainly because the compression ratio is a bit low at ~ 8.3 to 1 . Also there are limits to how much you can get out of NA RB30E pistons .

I'd forget about the RB20DET in a car as heavy as an R31 . Unfortunately you will also come up against handling limitations with strut front and unequal length trailing arm/panhard rod controlled live axle rear suspension . Without major mods you cannot stop the rear steer effect and even if you get around that the unsprung mass makes axle tramp an issue - thats without very expensive competition grade dampers .

Power beyond handling limitations and traction is a waste - a hard and expensive lesson to learn . Thinking about it I would try to enhance the RB30E with the GTS cam/computer/Nismo extractors and have a bash at driving the thing rather that doing major feats of re engineering . You may get to have a lot of fun without spending all your money and time working on it .

Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140325-my-r31/page/2/#findComment-2647347
Share on other sites

isnt it funny how everyone bags the 20

im on my 3rd (yes read it 3rd) rb20, and ive never thought otherwise. first one was a clapped out redtop nics mated to my auto, then i had a silvertop (which abruptly died too :laugh: ). 3rd time lucky, got a silvertop, mated it to a gtst auto till i blew the auto. gone manual and never looked back. you learn to drive around the lack of torque, and i do tow loaded trailers with my car too (hence the big f**koff towbar i have). since gettin the minispool ive noticed the axle tramp more, but thats easily cured for me with some new rear suspension bushes.

Plus in SA a 20 is now classified as a "Bolt In" engine swap, which just requires an engine number change. No ID check, no Regency inspection and no engineers report needed. 25 requires minimum of 33 GTST brakes and booster (straight away engineers report needed because you change the booster). To do a VLT setup (when i checked the specs) technically you're supposed to hav GTS front brakes as minimum, but i havent seen anyone go thru dramas with stock brakes.

Just my 2c, from someone who sticks up for the 20s amongst us. Plus if 20s are so torqueless, how come a 31 with a silvertop, stock turbo, stock boost, sidemount and 3" exhaust can beat a 33 with front mount, 3" exhaust and essentially a better turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140325-my-r31/page/2/#findComment-2665697
Share on other sites

there are limits to how much you can get out of NA RB30E pistons .

There are limits to how much you can get out of anything.

The stock pistons are quite capable of handling 250+kw

If you're aiming for anything higher than that, you'd probably replace them anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140325-my-r31/page/2/#findComment-2665918
Share on other sites

Matt, saw your car out at Lala on the weekend.. looks great, the white wheels really made it look good.

Simon is claiming my radiator since he has some weird dodgy one in his 32.. so we'll probably swap, but since im not drifting (yet) it shouldn't matter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140325-my-r31/page/2/#findComment-2670263
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...