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Hey Liz, thanks for a positive reply. (just realised i keep posting under my b/fs login, lol)

At the moment the car is getting another gearbox put in as the other was rooted... hopefully getting replacement boot and cd player today also.

No drift for me at the moment, but will be learning as soon as there is a prac day at Mallala im sure.. however i know that my car is horrid to drift, no angle at all, needs better handbrake and diff.

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If your going to transplant any RB I would start with an RB25DET , they make a lot more torque than an RB20DET and are dimensionally almost the same . If you want to build hybrid RB30DET's thats fine but to do it properly is expensive mainly because the compression ratio is a bit low at ~ 8.3 to 1 . Also there are limits to how much you can get out of NA RB30E pistons .

I'd forget about the RB20DET in a car as heavy as an R31 . Unfortunately you will also come up against handling limitations with strut front and unequal length trailing arm/panhard rod controlled live axle rear suspension . Without major mods you cannot stop the rear steer effect and even if you get around that the unsprung mass makes axle tramp an issue - thats without very expensive competition grade dampers .

Power beyond handling limitations and traction is a waste - a hard and expensive lesson to learn . Thinking about it I would try to enhance the RB30E with the GTS cam/computer/Nismo extractors and have a bash at driving the thing rather that doing major feats of re engineering . You may get to have a lot of fun without spending all your money and time working on it .

Cheers A .

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isnt it funny how everyone bags the 20

im on my 3rd (yes read it 3rd) rb20, and ive never thought otherwise. first one was a clapped out redtop nics mated to my auto, then i had a silvertop (which abruptly died too :laugh: ). 3rd time lucky, got a silvertop, mated it to a gtst auto till i blew the auto. gone manual and never looked back. you learn to drive around the lack of torque, and i do tow loaded trailers with my car too (hence the big f**koff towbar i have). since gettin the minispool ive noticed the axle tramp more, but thats easily cured for me with some new rear suspension bushes.

Plus in SA a 20 is now classified as a "Bolt In" engine swap, which just requires an engine number change. No ID check, no Regency inspection and no engineers report needed. 25 requires minimum of 33 GTST brakes and booster (straight away engineers report needed because you change the booster). To do a VLT setup (when i checked the specs) technically you're supposed to hav GTS front brakes as minimum, but i havent seen anyone go thru dramas with stock brakes.

Just my 2c, from someone who sticks up for the 20s amongst us. Plus if 20s are so torqueless, how come a 31 with a silvertop, stock turbo, stock boost, sidemount and 3" exhaust can beat a 33 with front mount, 3" exhaust and essentially a better turbo?

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there are limits to how much you can get out of NA RB30E pistons .

There are limits to how much you can get out of anything.

The stock pistons are quite capable of handling 250+kw

If you're aiming for anything higher than that, you'd probably replace them anyway.

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Matt, saw your car out at Lala on the weekend.. looks great, the white wheels really made it look good.

Simon is claiming my radiator since he has some weird dodgy one in his 32.. so we'll probably swap, but since im not drifting (yet) it shouldn't matter.

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