Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you dont NEED a wideband afrg. they are hell expensive and tuners use them. just leave it to them. but your standard narrow band gauge gives an indication of possible problems. its not worth paying $600+

as an eg, i have, afrg, boost, water & oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure gauges

I'd get gauges in this order, boost, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, afr an so on.. and try get a gauge with a warning light or a preset you can set the ' max ' of somethng and it'll flash or alarm, they're the best, my apexi el boost gauge lights up red if the car overboosts, which is great insurance as i'm usualy watching the road when i drive..

ull need a wideband afr gauge or dnt bother. volt gauge is gay.

i wanna get a inlet temp gauge next

To be realistic... I wouldnt even bother getting an AFRG....You'll know if your car is running lean or rich anyway.. Well i can tell.

Go with Dyna's suggestions.

To be realistic... I wouldnt even bother getting an AFRG....You'll know if your car is running lean or rich anyway.. Well i can tell.

Go with Dyna's suggestions.

as i was saying they are pointless unless they are accurate wideband gauges.. :P

To be realistic... I wouldnt even bother getting an AFRG....You'll know if your car is running lean or rich anyway.. Well i can tell.

Go with Dyna's suggestions.

Tell that line to your engine builder.."i knew my engine was running rich just before i saw a piston inbed itself in the bonnet !!".

I dont believe that for a second.You might be able to get a idea but throu listening but you dont know exactly what your air/fuel ratios are...

Ah in most cases you cant unless you have a meter or gauge. you might be able to hear an audilble knock or ping bit the damage is usually already done.i wouldnt rely my hearing on a modded import with a bit of boost and timing.

Get a stoich guage there only a 160 dollars approx.. maybe cheaper these days.

u dont necessarily need to be running lean to be pinging/knocking...large amounts of timing can do that on its own

whch is waht I have been saying for ever but no one beleived me

till my car hit the rollers ha ha

whch is waht I have been saying for ever but no one beleived me

till my car hit the rollers ha ha

i based my above assumption on ur car lol

its all smoke n mirrors until u see real proof...much like marki's posts :)

i based my above assumption on ur car lol

its all smoke n mirrors until u see real proof...much like marki's posts ;)

bahaha as if fool. ginger please

For the first time we agree. :)

yeah bro i knw my shit u just dnt like my SR.. ill prove u all wrong haha

Anyone gonna be out tonight? The weather looks like crap..

I'll be out once i've bed these in ;)

Brakes.jpg

ohh la la.. what brand..

and what pads u running.. im looking at upgrading pads..

the coilovers look like HSDs teins are full green

yeah bro i knw my shit u just dnt like my SR.. ill prove u all wrong haha

I'll probly like your sr, and props for building one up, but as for talking about it all the time like verbal diarrhea ;)

ohh la la.. what brand..

and what pads u running.. im looking at upgrading pads..

the coilovers look like HSDs teins are full green

Coilovers are HSD HR's with 5kg/front 4kg/rear springs, perfect for the street, but still firm cause they're the track spec damper..

Disks are 343mm two piece DBA5000 series, ferodo 2500 pads, custom unique autosports caliper spacer, motul RBF600 fluid, calipers serviced/new seals.. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...