Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i let my cars rego run out about 6 months ago.

I pulled the engine out (rb25det) and am putting in a 26/30. It will look like a stock rb26dett.

Am i going to be able to register it again without trouble?

I can get a roadworthy no worries but am concerned about vic-roads not registering my car because it has a different engine in it.

Am i peaking for nothing?

What issues will i have?

I live in melb if it makes any difference.

Cheers Simon

Edited by handyandy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140837-registration-issues/
Share on other sites

You should be alright as long as you can provide reciepts for the new engine, they will note the new engine number and may quickly check over the car for major defects. If the new engine is a different sort (RB26 instead of RB25) then there may be some attention paid but I can't see if being too hard.

Then you'd need an engineering certificate. ( i think? )

You need an engineers certificate whenever you fit an engine that was not provided as standard by the OEM in that model, or offered as an option (for that model). In your case you have an ECR33 which had an RB25DET from the factory, and the RB26 was not offered as an option (the BCNR33 or R33 GTR is regarded as a totally different model), let alone an RB26/30.

Of course, as others have suggested, the drones at Vicroads probably won't notice, but that doesn't make your car 'legal' and at the very least your insurance will be invalid (BTW, where do you live so I can avoid the suburb.......)

SteveL........hehehe, sh*t,

so where do i get a engineers certificate from?

Will the mechanics fitting the engine to my car do it?

How much?

Thanks Simon

You need an engineers certificate whenever you fit an engine that was not provided as standard by the OEM in that model, or offered as an option (for that model). In your case you have an ECR33 which had an RB25DET from the factory, and the RB26 was not offered as an option (the BCNR33 or R33 GTR is regarded as a totally different model), let alone an RB26/30.

Of course, as others have suggested, the drones at Vicroads probably won't notice, but that doesn't make your car 'legal' and at the very least your insurance will be invalid (BTW, where do you live so I can avoid the suburb.......)

Edited by handyandy

could make some difference depending on what Vic Roads office you take it to.

I know Carlton has a full workshop and may want to have a close look at the car, on the other hand Greensborough has nothing of the sort and when I rego'd my XT GT falcon complete with tunnel rams the chick asked me if it was a 6 or a v8 o_O

that said you could have insurance probs as pointed out above

haha i cleared the defect on my defectable car at greensborough, they didnt know what they were looking at

i just pointed to the car and said "look, its fixed!" the lady walded over to it and pretended to know what she was looking at, signed the piece of paper and walked back inside to the safety of her desk haha

FYI - The engine number is actually on the block - not the head... So it's not the RB26 they're going to see, it's RB30.

So when you go to vicroads to show them the engine number, they're going to see RB30 + a serial number stamped on the block.

Depending on whether or not the person out @ Vicroads is clued up enough, they're probably going to question the fact the engine serial number that was in there was RB25 and is now RB30.

Good luck though! :P

Cheers,

matt

You really need and engineers certificate. It will only cost $500 as long as your using the original ecu.

Ask Vic roads for a list of there approved enginners.

If your using an aftermarket ecu then you need to do emission testing which is very costly and most engineers won't do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...