Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I know alot of you know this so it shouldn't take long. Im just wondering how i change the brake fluid and all the process in between :P

Also, how do i remove a rock that is between my pads and brake disk?

Thanking you :)

you will have to pull your disk out to get the rock out.

As for bleeding the breaks, loosen off the little nipple thing on the back of your slave unit get someone to pump the peddle and squirt it into a bottle. Remember Break fluid will eat paint. Then before you release the break tighten the nipple, rinse and repeat.

Note: dont let air in there. Good luck

What snooze said is what we did. However you also need someone topping up the brake fluid as you bleed it out. Don’t let it get to low otherwise air will get in the lines.

You are also meant to do it in the following order...

Rear passenger's side

Rear driver’s side

Front passenger's side

Front driver’s side

What snooze said is what we did. However you also need someone topping up the brake fluid as you bleed it out. Don’t let it get to low otherwise air will get in the lines.

You are also meant to do it in the following order...

Rear passenger's side

Rear driver’s side

Front passenger's side

Front driver’s side

So I take the nipple off the corresponding corners one at a time pumping the brake until flushed, then replace with new fluid?

What fluid should I get?

god no... You crack open the nipple on one corner at a time just crack it open , say a quarter of a turn then get someone to pump the break peddle and then hold it. Or before you did this pump break and build pressure (pump peddle then hold) then crack one corner of the cars' break nipple and bleed.

Put dot 4 or dot 3 break fluid in. I think thats right.

Yea see we had some cool suction thingy. That is designed to bleed brakes. So we didn’t have to pump the peddle, it was clean not one drop of brake fluid anywhere. I put Castrol something or other in DOT 4.

Basically start pumping it out again keeping an eye on the reservoir until the colour of the fluid goes from a gross dark brown colour to a clearer colour (whatever the fluid you put in) for us it was a goldie yellow.

Hey guys,

I know alot of you know this so it shouldn't take long. Im just wondering how i change the brake fluid and all the process in between :)

Also, how do i remove a rock that is between my pads and brake disk?

Thanking you :)

Steve, dont go playing around with your brakes when you dont have a good idea of what your doing! Brakes are extremely important.

If you want your brakes bled and the fluid changed, send me a text with when your free and you can come round and Ill take you through it. :) Free of charge...

Incase you dont trust me to play with your brakes either, ask Luke (Frink) how good his brakes felt after I installed his braided lines and bled his brakes. :)

There are two nipples on the ABS unit that you should bleed aswell and there is a special sequence. As bullet 32 said brakes are a safety item and are not something you should take lightly.Check out the note below before undertaking any work.You can start by sucking the old fluid out of the Master cylinder and clean it out with a lint free rag and retop with new fluid. As for bleeding the bleed nipple is located on the top of each calliper so that it can let air out at the highest point and as stated you start at the furthest calliper from the Master Cylinder(the thing you put fluid in) and work your way to the closest(being the last) When pumping the pedal do it slowly and you get the best results when you open the nipple while the person is holding their foot on the brake pedal and shut it off before they take theyre foot off. PUMP>UNDO>SHUT>PUMP.As for fluid Use the highest boiling point brake fluid you can get(roughly 620 deg celsius) as its only a little dearer and will withstand higher temps. As for the abs bleed leave this for someone who knows what theyre doing.

BIG NOTE:Don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding. Dont spill the brake fluid on the paint as it will eat it and if you do wash it straight away with water. And dont leave the cap off while bleeding as brake fluid is Hygroscopic and as such draws moisture this is very bad for brakes as water starts to boil at 100 deg celsius.

Any questions my numbers 0422214621.

This is just a guide so if you are not mechanically minded leave it to someone who knows

Edited by widebody32
Steve, dont go playing around with your brakes when you dont have a good idea of what your doing! Brakes are extremely important.

If you want your brakes bled and the fluid changed, send me a text with when your free and you can come round and Ill take you through it. :) Free of charge...

Incase you dont trust me to play with your brakes either, ask Luke (Frink) how good his brakes felt after I installed his braided lines and bled his brakes. :)

Free of charge my arse! ill bring over some beers or something for you guys :P

I dont have to ask Luke coz i went in it remember...and i cannot believe how f**king good they were :O

Thanks alot Mick, ill get in touch :ninja:

By the way, are lukes brakes standard??

Thanks for the advice mate but i think i will leave it to the pros. :ninja:

There are two nipples on the ABS unit that you should bleed aswell and there is a special sequence. As bullet 32 said brakes are a safety item and are not something you should take lightly.Check out the note below before undertaking any work.You can start by sucking the old fluid out of the Master cylinder and clean it out with a lint free rag and retop with new fluid. As for bleeding the bleed nipple is located on the top of each calliper so that it can let air out at the highest point and as stated you start at the furthest calliper from the Master Cylinder(the thing you put fluid in) and work your way to the closest(being the last) When pumping the pedal do it slowly and you get the best results when you open the nipple while the person is holding their foot on the brake pedal and shut it off before they take theyre foot off. PUMP>UNDO>SHUT>PUMP.As for fluid Use the highest boiling point brake fluid you can get(roughly 620 deg celsius) as its only a little dearer and will withstand higher temps. As for the abs bleed leave this for someone who knows what theyre doing.

BIG NOTE:Don't let the master cylinder run dry while bleeding. Dont spill the brake fluid on the paint as it will eat it and if you do wash it straight away with water. And dont leave the cap off while bleeding as brake fluid is Hygroscopic and as such draws moisture this is very bad for brakes as water starts to boil at 100 deg celsius.

Any questions my numbers 0422214621.

This is just a guide so if you are not mechanically minded leave it to someone who knows

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...