Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently i have been seriously looking for a bigger turbo for my car, but wasn't too keen on the lag factor. My aim to to acheive 280-320rwkw, but i would like to keep it's drivability.

B4 i go on: i have done a comprehensive search and wasn't able to find anything on this issue, so please if you know of a thread post it up below.

For those in the know i would REALLLLLY appreciate your input and advise, i am all "ears"!

My idea is to replace my turbo and manifold with a twin turbo setup (gtr style). By using 2 smaller turbos (350hp each) this should, i think, produce about 400kw at the crank.

MODIFICATIONS (Things i know that need replacement):

-New manifold (Can a GTR manifold fit on the RB25det head?)

-Custom front pipes

-Dual oil/water cooling lines for turbos (can the original line be split into two to cool both?)

-Custom intake pipes (from filter to turbo and from turbo to fmic)

CURRENT MODS:

-Wolf 3D V4.51 R33 Plugin

-Fount Mount Intercooler

-Cold Air induction (Pod in sealed partition with 4" drain pipe feed from front bar.

-Adjustable boost

-3" hi-flow exhaust system from turbo

-H/D clutch

MODS TO BE COMPLETED WITH UPGRADE

-550cc injectors

-bosch fuel pump

-bosch fuel regulator

-Ceramic coating of all piping (ex. manifold, intercooler pipes, turbo cover, plenium, exhaust from turbo to cat., etc)

-ADJ. ex. cam gear (optional)

QUESTIONS:

-Is this project possible and financially fissable?

-Which turbo's would best do the job?

-Any other mods that you would recommend doing (cams, etc.)?

-Has this been done B4?

-How does the GTR manifold work? Does it use 3 cylinders per turbo?

-Any other information/points are most welcome.

Again, i would REALLY appreciate everyones input and like to say

THANKS in advance.

ALAN C.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14153-hlep-considering-bulding-a-rb25dett/
Share on other sites

OK high power and lag go hand in hand un less you increase capacity sso you want 280-320 rwkw with boost down low the best way to do this is with an rb 25/30 motlowth on hearhas a similar set upto what you want and thats how he did it the twin turbo's are possible but you will still have lagg.

he is making 310-320 rwkw @ 1 bar full boost by 4 k rpm I believe

meggala

btw go to my web site and read the mods section It might help

Hi Nismo_Boy, how about we cost this idea...

MODIFICATIONS

-New manifold $1200

no a GTR one won't fit.

-Custom front pipes $800

-Dual oil/water cooling lines for turbos $300

-Custom intake pipes $400

MODS TO BE COMPLETED WITH UPGRADE

-550cc injectors $800

-bosch fuel pump $500

-bosch fuel regulator $300

- Ceramic coating of all piping $700

- ADJ. ex. cam gear $250

- 2X hi flowed RB25 turbos $2200 each

- Dyno tune $400

That's a nice round $10,000 but the RB25 internals won't handle 320 rwkw, so you will need...........

- forged pistons $2000

- conrods $2200

- balance, gaskets, seals, o'ring block say $1800

- oil cooler $900

- radiator upgrade $1000

- camshafts $1600

- porting of cylinder head $700

And that totals $19,850.

When do you want to start?

THANKS FOR ALL YA INPUT GUYS!!

Looks like i need to go back to the single turbo idea, as the deal with NISMO_BOY may fall through. It was pure coinsidance that he was selling this setup at the time i posted this idea. But i consider $4000 for basically a block, manifold (modified rb26DETT) and 2 worn turbos a bit rich, not to mention risky.

But now i am back to my original delema. What turbo will best do the job and has the least lag? I am under no illusion that i will get more lag, just want the best package.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

Hi Nismo_Boy, how about we cost this idea...

MODIFICATIONS  

-New manifold $1200

no a GTR one won't fit.

-Custom front pipes  $800

-Dual oil/water cooling lines for turbos $300  

-Custom intake pipes $400  

MODS TO BE COMPLETED WITH UPGRADE  

-550cc injectors $800

-bosch fuel pump $500

-bosch fuel regulator $300

- Ceramic coating of all piping $700  

- ADJ. ex. cam gear $250

- 2X hi flowed RB25 turbos $2200 each

- Dyno tune $400

That's a nice round $10,000 but the RB25 internals won't handle 320 rwkw, so you will need...........

- forged pistons $2000

- conrods $2200

- balance, gaskets, seals, o'ring block say $1800

- oil cooler $900

- radiator upgrade $1000

- camshafts $1600

- porting of cylinder head $700

And that totals $19,850.

When do you want to start?

Why would i want to start, when i can just buy the one im selling for $4k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...