Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

White , just been bought in , has some goodies ie.

Cusco coilovers

ARC airbox

18x9 BBS wheels

Kakimoto computer

HKS blowoffs

Greddy oil cooler

underbody bracing

Nismo rear arms and Nismo caster rods

320kmh speedo

also have extra parts here in WA that were removed prior to shipping for compliance such as

1/2 cage

Recaro drivers seat

4 x defi gauges

LOUD exhaust

Big arse aluminium wing

Has 50K on the speedo but suspect about 80KM and has minor accident history.

Probably one of the last GTR's avaliable from Japan for a while.

Priced for quick sale at $26,500 complied but not lic.plus extra parts

Car is in Sydney for next week to be complied and then coming back to WA.

Contact [email protected] for more info.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by skyline33

Ken,

would you be intrested in swapping for an R33 GTST  series II

err , no and it is a 1992 as per the post at the top.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/#findComment-286045
Share on other sites

Originally posted by memphis

gimmmmmmiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeee!!

once it arrives in perth ill check it out, if its in good nick, ill have it!

depends what you mean by good nick.

If you want a one owner , low km , std GTR then you should have bought the gunmetal grey one I sold Simmo.

That was a damn nice car and he got it for a bargain price.

Micko also got a very good deal on his.

This is some sort of drift type GTR from Japan and as you can see by the parts it has been used.

Also has an evil twin or triple plate , super grippy clutch and a very noisy 1.5 type diff.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/#findComment-286054
Share on other sites

Originally posted by initialD

ken, wat type for minor damage?

Repair on RHR 1/4 and a repaint on the bonnet.

Has minor scratches and nicks .

Also the rhr skirt needs repainting cos the painter stuffed up the touchup.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/#findComment-286059
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes but there are guys on this forum who are based in the East can do it just as well.

Try Craig from J Spec and there is a guy in Qld who's name I forget with a good reputation.

Cheers

Ken

ps The cost of compliance on R33 GTR's atm is around $7500 now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/#findComment-300252
Share on other sites

for those interested in this car;

Ken is an extremely honest and trustworthy guy, if i had a chance to, i wouldn't think twice about buying a car off him!

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14163-r32-gtr-1992-fs/#findComment-301654
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...