Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i rember i asked on these forums about 4 years ago a ride to formal lol got flamed left right and center HAHAHA

any way i would be happy to help not a line ether 1jz cressida lol and it has coilovers now sound crap in it so its loud as hell and no radio ether :P so it would be a very very bumpy ride haha and noisey but car is white and should have tinted windows then :P lol

i rember i asked on these forums about 4 years ago a ride to formal lol got flamed left right and center HAHAHA

any way i would be happy to help not a line ether 1jz cressida lol and it has coilovers now sound crap in it so its loud as hell and no radio ether :P so it would be a very very bumpy ride haha and noisey but car is white and should have tinted windows then :P lol

ive got 1 working speaker and a japanese head unit :) stereo sound is for the rich

I didnt seem to cop any abuse with my ride thread haha. Guess it depends on how you ask

sup

i can get a 355 spider to give ya a lift, all you'd have to pay for is petrolium. car is obviously 2seater so only 1 passenger. there are certain conditions ofcourse:

- if the weather on the day is bad then forget about it. car doesn't leave the garage if there's/there's gonna be rain.

- you mess the interior in any way, you pay for the detailing

- you scratch the paint, your f**ked

- you will NOT ask him to do "burnouts" or anything like that. if you keep bugging him with this, expect to be thrown out of the car where ever you may be at the time.

- you will not touch the stereo/play with the volume etc

this is a genuine offer, i'm not messin around. he's a close family friend in his early 30's. thats how i got to my year12 formal. nice warm night in a 355 with the top down. you'll think you died and went to heaven ;)

i didn't pay a cent though :):P

seriously though if you wanna get there in style, shoot me a pm or something

If you want a Ride in the Cefiro - 4 door drift limo - your welcome.

Will look the part soon with respray and its new wheels!!

I have done a Formal run before in my JZX100 Chaser and both students and teachers were awestruck when it rocked up.

Pic of it with old wheels and paint.

ceffy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...