Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe you guys are forgetting the fact that he said its a GTT. I hardly find the stock volt guage useful. Since the stock dash already has oil pressure I'd keep the oil temp guage in the stock cluster and change the boost guage to a better one and the volt gauge to water temp.

Edited by OnGsTa

Im in the process of changing the guages as well..

Already got the defi boost guage on the a-pillar and will get Oil pressure, Oil temp and exhuast temp when the time comes..

was thinking of getting water temp but thats on pfc handcontroller so decided against it.

vacuum/boost gauge - it shows if there are any "boost" leaks

a/f gauge - see whether your sensors are working properly and that your car is getting the optimal fuel to air ratio at various RPMS

oil pressure - only if you're doing serious work and have changed the oil pump or anything oil system related

oh oh dont forget. the MONSTER TACHO BRO! with a "hectic" shift light, you really need one of those because your car doesnt already come with a tacho standard or anything....

wouldnt it be better to change the guages or add more relevant ones if the car has been modified heaps and is used for track days and that kinda shit?

The only use i see for these guages (if the car is not modified) is that they tend to raise the female curiosity (my friend regularly gets women looking at his wrx at night because of how the cabin is illuminated by the guages - but his car is modded heaps)

if you are tuning

exhaust temp

wideband af ratio

if you arent

stock boost is fine

stock oil is fine

maybe oil temperature

stock oil is not fine :thumbsup: its very common for the sender to f**k up in the r32/33 (not sure about r34); then you sometimes very values of almost zero and other times its fine :verymad:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...