Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

went to the car this morning to drive to work and its sitting in a small pool of clear/greenish fluid. had to rush to the train so i only had a quick look but it seems to be dripping from the gearbox casing.. any ideas what it may be?green usually is coolant, but it could be brake/clutch fluid or gearbox?

il have a better look tonight when i get a chance, but does anyone have a rough idea what could be busted?

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143630-fluid-leak/
Share on other sites

It seems to be the same problem me and Tay are having at the moment with the coolant leak from the heater pipes at the back of the engine. I first noticed it was dripping off my gearbox but it was leaking all the way down from the top of the engine (at the back) first.

Gearbox fluid is tranluscent red.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143630-fluid-leak/#findComment-2680270
Share on other sites

ok got under the car this mornin and im a bit baffled... checked coolant and it seemed fine, see in the pic more than just a drip was lost, prob like a litre or 2.. couldnt really see any leaks from any hoses thos. took it fro a drive and ive left it now so il see if there are any more leaks after it sits for a bit

on a side note (see other pic) is my clutch slave leaking? looks like it, im a bit of a noob...

james

ps sorry pix are from my phone

post-23423-1163810196.jpg

post-23423-1163810670.jpg

Edited by RCEBNR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143630-fluid-leak/#findComment-2682553
Share on other sites

Gearbox oil is yellow if its fresh, auto fluid is red (ATF), brake/clutch fluid can be yellow/green, coolant can be green/red (normally only toyota coolant is red). Its hard to tell but the clutch slave looks shiney which indicates wetness, peel back the boot and see if any fluid comes out..if it does you need a new slave cylinder. If its coming from higher then its most likely coolant from the heater hoses etc.

Now that ive seen the second picture and the way it looks to be drying on the ground i say coolant.

After a second look at the first pic the slave looks to be new too LOL.

Edited by Godzilla32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143630-fluid-leak/#findComment-2683017
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...