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yeah well some of the zorst manifold stubs were broken so i thought id do it up a bit b4 i sell it haha

yea i thought id just fix mine up a lil so it was straight and tidy but now look at it. OMG the bug got me. :pirate:

Wanted To Buy:

R32 GTST front reo bar

R32 GTST front bar..factory or aftermarket doesnt matter

R32 driverside head light non projector type..sorta looks like 2 sqaures if you get what i mean

PM with details and what price your looking for thanks

WTB: for my rb20det.

- hks 2530

- 550cc injectors or gtr injectors with resistor pack

- z32

- gtr fuel pump or bosch 040

- splitfires

if your still after Z32 i have one and will part with it for $200 FIRM im not letting it go for less than i paid for it

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=190288740892

works a treat! one of the best manual controllers I've had.

i can vouch for that ebay seller and boost controller A1

Rb20/25 Clutch - Must be a standard and in very good condition.

Rb20 Gearbox - Must be in good working condition.

R32/Rb20 Speedo Drive - Runs from back of dash cluster into gearbox, Must be in working order.

R32/S13 standard castor rods

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    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
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    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
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