Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I have just put a front mount in my 1997 r33 Series 2 m spec below:

post-32432-1163920515.jpg

I want to do a gtr front...

wondering what I need to do and where is best place to buy kits and fit them...

I can get stuff from carmate.com.au cost price but i have heard rumours that they are a bit of a dodgy fit..

cmon guys help me pimp maa ride!

haha

reason for wanting to put a gtr front bar on is because i had to modify my gts - t bar to fit the cooler, in the process some dumb fark dropped the grinder which decided to jump and hit my precious front bar!

took a chuck out near the cooler lower right hand corner of inner grill

lets see what you guys reccomend!

I intend to finish my bodykit ie . skirts / rear bar and whatever else i need to do. for got what those things are on the gtr between rear bar and the skirts :-P...

I also like wings so I am putting a gtr wing on my car... so i guess i should just do the full package...

what do you all reccomend now you know what i like and want... considering i need something to make my cooler look absolutely SHMICK!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143873-what-front-bar-should-i-get-r33/
Share on other sites

post-32432-1163921630.jpg

how about this?

obviously in black :-P

i like these 400R front bars.... the gtr kits on carmate dont look as good as the real deal for some reason...

what you guys reccon?

Nah i have seen one in flesh.. Doesnt look as nice as i thought it would.

Stick to the stock s2 front bar!! Loooks much nicer i reckon!!

But if you really wanna change it, then go for the gtr front look.. Just like the 40th anniversary s2s

But i reckon for yours.

400r skirts, Gtr wing, stock s2 front, and lots and lots of lowering for that ideal pimp look!! hahah

Need more pics of s2s, go to my thread

stick with the stock bar and put a aftermarket lip on it...looks so much better.....I think the series 2 front bar is one of the best looking stock bars EVER created and I don't think I'll want to get rid of something this sexy

stick with the stock bar and put a aftermarket lip on it...looks so much better.....I think the series 2 front bar is one of the best looking stock bars EVER created and I don't think I'll want to get rid of something this sexy

yeh but I want every part of my 33 to be perfect and I have done quite a hack job to my front bar to get the cooler to fit properly.. it looks good from far.. but far from good up close.

Nah i have seen one in flesh.. Doesnt look as nice as i thought it would.

Stick to the stock s2 front bar!! Loooks much nicer i reckon!!

But if you really wanna change it, then go for the gtr front look.. Just like the 40th anniversary s2s

But i reckon for yours.

400r skirts, Gtr wing, stock s2 front, and lots and lots of lowering for that ideal pimp look!! hahah

Need more pics of s2s, go to my thread

cheers for the ideas.... well my front bar is mangled now! i love my bar.. but just thinking where i could get a brand new stock one and chuck a lip on the front of it... and who could fabricate it and custom fit it around my cooler so it remains looking as clean as it was before i had tha cooler.!

yeh but I want every part of my 33 to be perfect and I have done quite a hack job to my front bar to get the cooler to fit properly.. it looks good from far.. but far from good up close.

if you've screwed up the bottom part of the front bar then the lip will cover it up, if you've somehow managed to hack up the entire front bar...............then I guess get GTR front bars....a lot of people like 400R front bars, but I only find the skirt and rear bar to be appealing.

JUN kits are hot as well

and um......NO VEILSIDE!!!!!!!!

I am in the same position. Girlfriend borrowed teh car and gave it back with a mangled front bar (car park entry). Lip is destroyed. I dont know if I want to stick with the S2 front bar or go after market. Either way te bars gotta get resprayed.

Where is a good place to go for body kits in Syd? I want to try and get the car to showroom condition and all I can seem to find are dodgy fibreglass rip offs...

Cheers,

Christian.

I am in the same position. Girlfriend borrowed teh car and gave it back with a mangled front bar (car park entry). Lip is destroyed. I dont know if I want to stick with the S2 front bar or go after market. Either way te bars gotta get resprayed.

Where is a good place to go for body kits in Syd? I want to try and get the car to showroom condition and all I can seem to find are dodgy fibreglass rip offs...

Cheers,

Christian.

I am in your boat brothaaa :mellow:

I'd have one of these if i could find one. It's the 40th anniversary front bar.

That was only a option on the 40th aniversary models, it didnt come standard, also the rear gtr spolier was another 40th aniversary option.

In my opnion i would keep the stock front bar, but if you really want to change it would chose the gtr front bar, here it is:

1509773.jpg

Edited by nizmo_freek
That was only a option on the 40th aniversary models, it didnt come standard, also the rear gtr spolier was another 40th aniversary option.

In my opnion i would keep the stock front bar, but if you really want to change it would chose the gtr front bar, here it is:

1509773.jpg

thats hot! where the fudge do i get 1 of these...

So the story gets better. Me and Dad spent the afternoon pulling the front lip spoiler off the factory S2 front bar. I have never seen so much sikaflex and dodgy repair work in my life. It looks like there was some front end on Japanese driveway action and only the lip was repaired, and not very well at that. A coat of fresh paint quite nicely hid the repair work...

Is that Factory GTR bar shown above a special or custom part or can you retrofit any GTR bar to go onto the GTS cause at the moment im leaning towards that option.

P.S. Sorry to whore your thread Stevo but i reckon we are in the same boat. I dont want some dodgy piece of shit hanging off the front of my pride and joy either.

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt

we're all there dudes... the kit on mine is the explosive one mentioned earlier and it's pretty good but i decided against the front bar cause it's too low and too brittle... it'd just snap off at the first driveway showdown... the GTR one is ok... but....

also after some ideas here.

So it seems that we are all stuck with our mangled stock front bars. I have a plastic welder lined up to repair the damage to my bar and re spray it but come on, An OEM GTR bar would look so hot - there has to be a way to do it, there are even pics of an S2 GTS with the bar above...

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...