Jump to content
SAU Community

Mongoose Or Viper?

rb25_r32

By rb25_r32,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chris Rogers
Chris Rogers

you meant to say you parallel import them. the 5900SS is NOT available in oz and the 791 is a B stock item from DEI meant for mexico. now going further on that DEI will not warrant any part of it so i

Ronin 09 Grand Master

Ronin 09

Posted
Posted

i'm liking the idea of the GPS tracking on the Mongoose.

Chris, what is the typical number of texts that the unit might send in a month given it is garaged and rarely used?

can it be set up only to let you know when there is a security breach, rather than giving you daily updates etc?

cheers

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
The viper 791 is a very good choice also, they're a bulletproof alarm.. getting a little old but still A1

you are kidding right??

range on that item is at best 300m line of site. single point of kill on it and worst of all coloured wiring. find the relay satellite or the unit and its taost. how good is that?

-----------------

Just got a new car *350Z* & looking to upgrade the stock alarm / immobiliser system, I think I’ll go for an M80.

Anyone have any recommendations for a GPS tracking system / service? Links?

----------------

since you are in teh ACT I would look at one that supports your area for starters. also if youwant the police DIRECTLY involved that will alos come into play. Quiktrak does this but they do not cover ACT.

most of the GPS units available will give street Co-ords out of the box..

----------------

i'm liking the idea of the GPS tracking on the Mongoose.

Chris, what is the typical number of texts that the unit might send in a month given it is garaged and rarely used?

can it be set up only to let you know when there is a security breach, rather than giving you daily updates etc?

------------------

the mongoose one to my knowledge is only a GSM pager. so if you set it off it sends you a text saying so.

the one I'm talking about is NOT a mongoose item. that said if you do not drive teh car for a moth it will probably send you a text saying low battery but thats it.

if you have a differnet unit in mind can you show me please.

Primordial Grand Master

Primordial

Posted
Posted

yeah I've got a Viper 791. I've found it to be great. I had my installer put in an extra two immobiliser points, plus a remote kill switch...

I dont know how helpful this will be for insurance purposes, although its bound to slow the pros down for at least another 30 seconds! :laugh:

The remote start feature is the best thing about it for me.. The amount of damage I'm saving on the engine is not calculable, but surely good in the long run. That marketing campaign a few years back for an oil company said that a majority of engine damage is done when the engine is cold. Anyway thats just a perk.

If I had my choice again, I'd have a very difficult decision - although I'd probably end up with the M80 for security purposes. People cant say that their Viper alarm is great because their car hasnt been stolen! It's not until you lose your car that you will change your mind! haha

The remote start and auto window winding is awesome, although window winding can be implemented into most alarms i think?

Conclusion:

Buy the Viper for - Remote start, Flashy remote, 2 Way paging (only if its parked in your garage or within a few hundred metres- sif you aint gonna hear the exhaust anyway!!), engine saving ability if you religiously use the remote start to warm your engine

Buy the M80 for - Security - Black Wiring = harder to steal, Insurance approved (check the viper with your insurance company tho), possibly cheaper, easier to find replacement parts

Donnan Collaborator

Donnan

Posted
Posted

My previous car had a Mongoose M80 and my current car (32 GTR) has the Viper alarm.

My only real gripe with the Mongoose is the sensitive nature of its electronics. I had to remove the battery on the old car and forgot to turn off the alarm. Instead of the siren going off when I removed the negative terminal, it just beeped at me and died! I went back to get it fixed under warranty and the installer tried to charge me for it; claiming that its electronics were not meant to cope under those conditions!! Other than that it worked fine.

I have not had any such problems in the new car with the Viper system. I had to get a jump start when the battery died and had no problems with the alarm. I then got a new battery and the siren went of as expected when we diconnected the battery. After reconnection everything still worked fine.

I may have just been unlucky with the M80, but if creating a spark on the battery is all you need to do to disable the siren (not the immobiliser) then it is not much of a deterant.

As for the remote start: I am not sure if it is a standard part of the install, but my car can not be started if the bonnet is open or if the car is in gear (electronically controlled).

Sorry for the long post but I just wanted to add my $2 worth since we don't have 2c coins anymore.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

the sirens need to be changed every 2 yrs . the battery in them does die just like everything else. never had an issue with the units myself.

for the 791 (when I reluctantly do them) I do thei start as a standard part of the install (on AUTO only.)

  • 2 weeks later...
GTSTGIRL Enthusiast

GTSTGIRL

Posted
Posted
Yeah thats been mentioned at least once already. Thanks for your input. Notice I listed reasons FOR buying the alarms, not against :)

My Viper has tilt sensors too. And the guy flogging the Mongoose owns the shop! Ofcourse hes going to be pushing it....... :P

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
My Viper has tilt sensors too. And the guy flogging the Mongoose owns the shop! Ofcourse hes going to be pushing it....... :P

you mean me?

I do have a viper account as well and I do sell them. for teh skyline mongoose suits the car.

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Chris, whats a rough price to supply + install a Viper 791xv with all the bells+whistles (remote start, etc). Can the wiring loom be upgraded to black wires?

wont do a imported (EG EBAY) 791 as tehy are b stock. they can not be done to black wies and the Oz stds is a bit more than just colours. its also about design an that one will not pass. 288RLI (autowatch) was recommended for that reason depsite cost.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
×
×
  • Create New...