Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my car is a r31 ti skyline and iam not sure about somthing atm its running at 11.1lts to the 100km and i can do 535km till the tank is empty. that info is all from the on bored computer and was worndaing does that sound right

thinks :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144032-r31-ti/
Share on other sites

As I don't own an R31 Ti, this cant be specific, but!

In my collection I have a U12 Pintara Ti auto and that returns about the same as your R31 and it is a KA24E.

My old MX83 Cressida returned the best figures I could get, on highway cruising was 12L/100 and about 15/100 around town.

These 2 cars are similar in weight but the R31 has less HP as in 114Kw Vs 142Kw.

My latest Cressida on a recent trip to Melbourne, returned 10.5L/100 for 2011 Km and just got back from the Gold Coast and for 2312 Km returned 11.33L/100, so for over 4000K I got 10.9L/100 on average.

I think this is brilliant considering the cars are their respective top of the tree luxury versions, complete with all the trimmings & fruit salad.

I am though, questioning your computers calculation of 535k which tells me it says it only has 50L in the tank which is incorrect. I would guess it would have between 60 & 70L

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144032-r31-ti/#findComment-2688230
Share on other sites

Your fuel consumption sounds about right. I have a Ti as well as a couple of others :happy:

The average consumption in traffic should be around 12 or 12.5, and on a trip should vary from 9.8 to 11.5. So you are right on the ball. The fuel tank is 65 litres, but the trip computer only takes into account around 50-55, so even your trip computer is right, because it has a 10 litre reserve.

Your trip computer has a hidden function as well. If you press the hour and the minute buttons together, it will tell you how many litres are left in the tank. This is very accurate, and will help better with distance to empty, taking into account all the fuel instead of just what the trip computer thinks it has.

So all in all, your trip computer is working accurately (the way it was intended anyway), and your fuel consumption is on the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144032-r31-ti/#findComment-2689312
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
my car is a r31 ti skyline and iam not sure about somthing atm its running at 11.1lts to the 100km and i can do 535km till the tank is empty. that info is all from the on bored computer and was worndaing does that sound right

thinks :)

i had an R31 sil with the 5spd manual and i used to get 8.9-9l/100k for long distance and around 9-10.5l/100k in and around the city and i used to get ~700k per tank {well 698ish} and even my GXE3 got similar figures.. try cleaning air filter and maybe new plugs and stuff cause my sil used to go heaps better afterdoing that.. lol that poor car ran the same oil for 1 year and a half :P over 30000ks but it still kept going hard they are wicked cars.. ive recently bought a WGNC34 Stagea cant wait to take that on a run up to cairns

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144032-r31-ti/#findComment-2762166
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...