Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys i was wondering if its possible if you can post pics of ur cold air intake setups and heat shield setups you have used on ur r32's. reason beaing that my air filkter is just sitting there sucking in a SHIT load of hot air and im unsure of how to defeat this issue.

so any suggestions and fotos would be awesome!! THANKS AGAIN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144158-air-filter-shielding-on-an-r32/
Share on other sites

you obviously have a opipe that comes from outside and rams co0ld air in there yer?

send me other pics if u can yer...when u geta chance

well I didnt buy it, a mate of mine made it for me

this is the only pic I can find atm.. just a side shot

Its abit more expensive but i never get any hot air into the turbo this way... :):(

yer, i was thinking of that idea, but the wet weather put me off....so any problems as yet? and does water stuff up the airfilter?

Ive had the filter get abit wet from a rainy day and had no drama's.

The induction noise is much louder, performance i wouldn't think i gained much as at the end of the day the air has to travel through the turbo then intercooler where it actually gets cooled, i did it more for piece of mind that the motor isn't gettin heat soaked when im just sittin there in summer! >_<

looks good, but do u hav induction piping from underneith into that box or not?
the box is only on the sides, so there is already air comming in at the front

factory cold air feed runs under the headlight, just uses that

performance i wouldn't think i gained much as at the end of the day the air has to travel through the turbo then intercooler where it actually gets cooled, i did it more for piece of mind that the motor isn't getting heat soaked when im just sittin there in summer! >_<

A CAI is always much better than a pod sitting in air heated by the radiator. There are real losses, especially as the weather warms up. I notice almost no difference on a hot day. Feels the same. Unsure if those with pods feel a difference as I've never ran one.

----------------

I've always ran the stock airbox, I've plumbed 2 x 45degree 100mm pvc pipe in to the stock airbox. Looks all neat and tidy.

Probably could attach the stock cai to it to hide it a little more.

When I first did the cai I checked the filter to see how wet it was after a long wet drive. It was almost dry, the afm was definitely dry as was all the piping and top side of the filter. The bottom of the box was still dry also. Just the filter felt ever so slightly slippery on the bottom side.

I did punch it through puddles and had ppls driving in front spraying up plenty of water.

post-382-1164185835.jpg

I disagree, i get no heat when i stick my hand in that area what so ever (tiny bit if you thrash the hell outta it off the IC pipe), the radiator heat runs behind that, it is where the factory cooler would sit and even has the cuts in the wheel arch behind it to keep airflowing through >_<

I have had no problems with water, and to be honest i find the temp of the day doesn't really change how the car drives like it used to sitting up near the motor. I used to get abit more lag or abit less power down low, now its much smoother n almost always the same. Induction noise is much much louder and it looks sh*t hot when you open the engine bay.

I may even chuck it on the dyno and see if it makes any more power for a test! I wouldn't guess it would make much more, but maybe 5-10 rwhp max. It was more about the motor gettin heatsoaked in summer as i notice its startin to get hot and this has really helped. You will ALWAYS have ambient air blowin onto it even at 5kms an hour as its in a direct flow area rather than sittin around in an engine bay.

Personally i think either will do the job just aslong as the pod has a good source of air flow and is blocked from heat, that thing under the headlight isn't really any good

hmm........std box? but there is no sucking noise ey? BORING!!! lol...the filter down behind the bar seems cool....but yer...wat if the dampness gets in the afm? is that bad?

It doesn't... I've had it like this for almost 5years and ~150,000km's. >_<

Its actually quite loud, in the cabin its not with the windows up but passenger window down it is loud, however its very much louder on the side of the road, on par with a pod and you can hear the loud sucking noise from the bumper area rather than just everywhere.

I may even chuck it on the dyno and see if it makes any more power for a test! I wouldn't guess it would make much more, but maybe 5-10 rwhp max. It was more about the motor gettin heatsoaked in summer as i notice its startin to get hot and this has really helped. You will ALWAYS have ambient air blowin onto it even at 5kms an hour as its in a direct flow area rather than sittin around in an engine bay.

Chances are you won't see an increase in power as when you run up on the dyno the operator places the IT sensor where the air is sucked from, if its a pod usually on the pod, if its the stock air box inside the CAI.

As the POD see's a higher inlet temp from air passing through the radiator the IT sensor see's this, reports it to the dyno and the dyno pumps up the power figure to supposively 'compensate' for the given car's poor setup. Thats the way I look at it anyway >_<

Shove the IT sensor in the cai of a box and the it sensor reading will be lower so no or very little power correction will be made.

I've always strongly believed shoot out mode is a load of crap for this very reason, it should be placed in front of the car in the stream of the air leaving the big arsed fan. If you run a pod the motors going to suck hot air thats passed through the rad, so its going to make less power, if it runs a good cai and box its going to make more with no adjustment to the power reading other than the temp of the air the car is being blasted with. Reflects more so the real world on road performance with the bonnet down.

If that makes sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...