Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, new to the site, nice to met you all.

I'm looking into swaping my VQ35 motor and tranny in my 350Z for a RB26DETT motor and a RB25 Tranny.

My question is where would be a good place to start looking for one.

A place that is trust worthy and known for quality parts....shops, junkyards...etc

Most importantly what should I expect to pay for them.

Here in the U.S RB distributers over charge.

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144401-purchasing-a-rb26/
Share on other sites

http://www.d1garage.com/

Doesn't look like they have stock at the moment, but Im sure they can source one.

Dont know about freight to U.S. though.

thanks for the info.

Yeah shipping to here is a $#%& on average anywere from 400 to 6-650.

Edited by Z33-GTR

Here's one... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/hpiab2/category36_1.htm

And another... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=31730

Hands off this one! She's mine! I wish! http://www.powerplayimports.com/

Just a few... But as said mate... shipping is what's going to screw ya!

Cheers.

any rb26 is going to be rather expensive.

I see that more and more as time goes on and it's popularity increases.

I'm just trying to research every possible conner before I purchase something then find a bada$$ deal later for not searching hard enough

Just chuck twin turbos on the VQ35, it'd probably be cheaper. :sick:

Or is the VQ35 too common for you is it? :spank:

:laughing-smiley-014:

Well I think in the long run (high WHP) per dollar wise the RB is the way to go.

I've been keeping track/ studding the FI VQ35's and they are good for about 425-450RWHP on stock internals before fortification is something needed to go up higher from there.

I've only started to research the RB26DETT motor now and it seems to me that with less effort/ bolt on parts it's easier to start increasing HP to a level that heavy machining and internal replacement is needed for the VQ.

IMOP

that's why I'm here, to learn and educate myself on the Rb26

Here's one... http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/hpiab2/category36_1.htm

And another... http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=31730

Hands off this one! She's mine! I wish! http://www.powerplayimports.com/

Just a few... But as said mate... shipping is what's going to screw ya!

Cheers.

Thanks for the site's, as soon as the wife stops yaping to get off of the PC I'll check them out.

Yes indeed shipping will hurt big time. I wanted to import a Kei Office body kit from Japan and was going to run me 670 by water and 880 by air....I felt violated just by opening that email...lol

Hey buddy, I was also researching into putting an RB26 into a 350z over in the states, I'm moving there fairly soon and wanted a ride. But in researching, I found that it's difficult to put the RB into anything that's LHD as the turbo and ancillaries are going to interfere with the steering components, unless you spend copious amounts of money into putting a high mount single turbo onto the RB.

RB26 into 350Z

That's just an example, be it a drag car, but thought you might like a link of how it can be done.

It can be done, but it's a big cost hit, compared with rebuilding a VQ series engine. I'm sure you've come across the U.S. sites which do sell the RB's like I have, which is why your looking at shipping from overseas direct. Perhaps wait for how the new VQ35HR engines are like? but im unsure how it's going to be be boost-friendly as it has a higher compression than current VQ35DE's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...