Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know how to remove the rear seats?

Remove the 2 bolts at the front of the bottom section of the seat and it will come out .. revealing the 2 bolts at the bottom of the back section .. take these bolts out them pull forward a little at the bottom and force the seat up (sometimes can be a little difficult), the whole process should take 10 minutes.

As for the factory immoboliser ... doesn't have 1 standard to my knowledge

you will need aftermarket for the 3 point insurance requirements

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2704158
Share on other sites

If you need a immobilier try one of these......they stop anyone

FN_FAL_Brazil.jpg

But anyway,

Na the stock one isnt complient for what you need as it isnt 3 point and isnt all black wiring. i highly recommend getting a aftermarket one like a autowatch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2704211
Share on other sites

As for the factory immoboliser ... doesn't have 1 standard to my knowledge

you will need aftermarket for the 3 point insurance requirements

Garry is right, they dont have one at all...

Mongoose also make a 3 point immobiliser with black wiring. M80 series.

The M80 would be my first choice for value...

I persoanlly run the M60S as it offeres battery backup and auto window up and is compatible with all turbo timers, which is perfect for turbo's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2707997
Share on other sites

The M80 would be my first choice for value...

I persoanlly run the M60S as it offeres battery backup and auto window up and is compatible with all turbo timers, which is perfect for turbo's.

M80 is a triple immobiliser, whereas the M60 is only a dual immobiliser, so the M80 would be the immobiliser of choice if your insurance company requires a triple (or 3 point) immobiliser system. The M80 series offers the features of the M60, plus more.

The M80 is compatible with Shannons Insurance requirements due to the triple protection of the immobiliser.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2708123
Share on other sites

I would have to agree. The m80 is a good reliable immobiliser/alarm. go to autobarn at Slacks Ck. Not only do they know there shit, they also know skylines. i talked to one of the install dudes and he was able to say what i needed, what i didnt need, etc. Would recommend both the m80 for both insurance and piece of mind and Autobarn at Slacks Ck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2718234
Share on other sites

I would have to agree. The m80 is a good reliable immobiliser/alarm. go to autobarn at Slacks Ck. Not only do they know there shit, they also know skylines. i talked to one of the install dudes and he was able to say what i needed, what i didnt need, etc. Would recommend both the m80 for both insurance and piece of mind and Autobarn at Slacks Ck

whats the m80 worth and how much to fit?? anyone know?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2718526
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

M80 is the way to go! It has the three point immobliser, If you twist my arm I might be albe to through in a window lift module.

We have other alarms to but from my expeince mongoose are the best, If you want to be in contact with your car all the time, they even offer the SMS module.

If you have any Questions feel free to give us a call -07 54 9333 66

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2718920
Share on other sites

Well Matt the M60S set me back about $280 and it was a DIY job for an me, but then again im a qualified auto-elec... :pirate:

The reason I suggested the M60 in the first place was price... The M80 is superior hence why the model number is higher, but most insurance companies only require you to have 2 points protected and in this case money is Matt's issue so the M60 would be his best bet....

Seriouslly hit up Chris Rogers for a installed price as he will be your best bet being a club sponcer...

Better yet you can talk directlly to Sam and Chris this Sunday at the SCC... :kiss:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144801-imobiliser/#findComment-2720324
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...