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Thanks guys,

I've found out that it would cost the same if not more to build a RB30DE instead of just putting the turbo (RB25DET) engine in.

What was suggested was to bore out the current block to 3L, saving a lot of hassle of getting the whole 3L engine in and connected to everything.

  • 4 weeks later...
Originally posted by NS2500

Thanks guys,

I've found out that it would cost the same if not more to build a RB30DE instead of just putting the turbo (RB25DET) engine in.

What was suggested was to bore out the current block to 3L, saving a lot of hassle of getting the whole 3L engine in and connected to everything.

I seriously doubt that you can bore a RB25 out to 3 litres.

  • 2 weeks later...

i am planning on building an RB30DE, with forged pistons, etc. etc.

planning on about $7000 for the complete rebuild...do it properly the first time i say. i have an R31, so an atmo belongs in the engine bay, when it comes time to get an R32 gts-t, i can just swap engines over and put a HKS 3037 turbo kit on the side. :P

cheers

Linton

$7000 seems pretty expensive, I've got a couple of quotes and I was looking at $4000 - $4500. The quote for $4500 included being bored out to 3.2 litre, and new pistons (they weren't forged though).

Look around, you could get a turbo fitted as well for $7000

yeh, i probably could turbo it....but then im in a different league, i have to compete with other turbos, with bigger or multiple turbos.

i want a TOUGH atmo, not a mild one, a bulletproof, fully worked RB30DE, so when i drive away from some turboed cars, i can say its not turbo and thats how i wanted it.

$7000 is including the other things, like gearbox, tailshaft and diff rebuilds aswell as brakes.

would beefed up R31 brakes do the job?? or would i have to get the import struts and put R32 GTR brakes on???

cheers

Linton

  • 4 weeks later...

RB series engines though not quite as long in their stroke as L series engiens were good for torque. Which is why they take well to turbo set-ups. Twin cam versions of the same engines had better breathing abilities which enables greater high end performance. This can be substituted by proper head work to allow greater flow with optimised back pressure. I've built a few RB's and L's and proper head work coupled with a good quality engine management can yield +250kW figures N/A while still using stock bottom end components. Be carefull who & what you throw money at cause somethimes they're lost causes.

  • 4 weeks later...

reliability is a completely different thing. That depends on how you drive it, and i'm not talking just revs. I'm talking lauches, changes, loading, heat (oil & water), maintainance, everything. Compression ratio will also depend on what fuel your going to use. Its near impossible to go past 12:1 without using very high octane fuel. How you intending on changing compression ratio? What ever it is make sure the valves have clearance to the pistons. Would suggest staying around 10 or 11:1 for 200kW.

If done correctly, you can easily maintain excellent reliability and good drivability.

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