Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK on the weekend of the 15th, 16th and 17th I am going to be in ipswich ripping apart my dash and replacing my heater core, those who are in the general area and want to stop by to help out or laugh or bring beer and laugh, please PM me and once i know where it actually is where we are going I'll let you know :laugh:

So far darrin has said he'd pitch in, and it will just be me and a mate, so any help will be greatly appreciated.

Brad, you mentioned some wierd, hard to get to screws, I cant seem to see any on the FAST pics I got below. I went through each FAST pic for the WGNC34 model and came up with these, am I missing anything?

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

dash3-heatercore.jpg

dash4.jpg

dash5.jpg

dash6.jpg

dash7.jpg

OK so I will be at a workshop, so tools wont be a problem, but what other things should i have onhand, for obvious example, replacement coolant?

ANyone got any tips or tricks or any hints or secrets?

I know this is going to be a BIG involved job, so any help anyone could give would be great.

Thanks in advance,

Cy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145059-replacing-heater-core/
Share on other sites

Looks like a pretty similar job to the one I had to do on my R33

Will have to remove the steering wheel aswell to get the dash out. Will need a T50 tool to remove airbag from steering wheel, I have one if needed.

Will need to remove passenger airbag aswell

There is always some hidden bolts in behind vents etc.

Most modern cars are built all very similar.

Should be about a 4-5 hour job all up and a few beers :D

You reckon? Well I plan to arrive friday arvo/evening and make a start either friday night or saturday morning. It would be great if we got it all done in one day :D Because then we could have a go at rewiring my reverse light :P

Bugger. Ska I was hoping to meet you when you came down. I'm in for the chop on the 11th and wont bw out till 15th but figure i'll be a bit sick and sore. Hop it all goes well.

Dude, this took me about an hour and half just to remove and heaps of the dash and associated bits were already gone.

My suggestion is to take out the air con unit (this means a regas afterwards) and get at it from the side.

Snap the two plastic bits that hold it in and pull it out sideways. It should hold in place without them on installation.

I removed about 50 nuts and screws etc to get the bars out that cross under the dash. I got about 4cm movement but couldn't get them out.

Good luck.

  • 3 weeks later...

OK it's done, here is a few observations:

1. DONT EVER DO THIS IS FCUKING SUCKS DOGS BALLS!!!

2. Did I mention is freakin sucked?

3. It really sucked!

4. Everything that possibly could go wrong did.

5. Without the help and support of a lot of REALLY FCUKIN FANTASTIC people, I would not be here today.

Stan, yours fit beautifully, we have heat and aircon :D So nerr nerr to your having to regass the aircon :D:)

Other then that over the past 2-3 weeks I have had the privalege to have the help of some VERY VERY nice people:

Marc - Revhead - Without his help and use of a workshop i would never have been able to get this done, Marc and his whole family are wonderful people, even if his brother covered the rear passengers side of the car with bright green 2pac by accident :laugh:

Darrin- darrinspencer - Advise and rear camber bushes, which we ran out of time to put in.... stupid freakin heater core.......

Rob - qickstagea - Thanks heaps for your help installing the speakers, mate they rock! Maybe next time I'll remind you to turn your car off, :O 3hours worth of idling, man I have never heard of anyone forgetting to turn thier car off.... whoops :D

And to everyone else out there who has sent me their condolances, it really makes me proud to be a part of this wonderful bunch of people in the stagea section, and SAu.

I am going to go back to sleep now, ~19hours is just not enough after that freakin stressfull 4days :D

Yeah here is the diy:

1. spend 2 days unbolting and removing stuff

2. spend another 2 days trying to make it all fit back in...........

Yeah didnt really need it for the heat, just wanted to get it done so that it is one less thing for potential buyers to pick out.

On the upside I did fine out I have platinum spark plugs and the results of my compression test:

1 - 138

2 - 148

3 - 137

4 - 138

5 - 136

6 - 138

So all up not bad, I did the test about 5 times just to make sure i was right with number 2, but it always hit 148 for some reason, still nice to see the engine is nice and healthy :P

  • 8 months later...

OK

so my heater core has gone walkabouts

what model / part numbers need to be used to repalce it - ie what heater core from the 'skyline' family fits ?

otherwise its around $500 to purchase the stagea item from japan.

I bought this one (300zx) from here when i replaced my R33 core, just changed the hose connections over. FAST says that the Stagea core is same as the R33 core, 27140-0E010, the core seems to be universal on a few models, compare the picture with yours.

http://www.ttzed.com/products/products_det...=&do=detail

Why the F%#@ didnt Nissan make the core more accessible, instead of having to dismantle half the car, they usually go around the 8 yr mark, looking forward to killing 3 days of my life soon.

Edited by chook
OK

so my heater core has gone walkabouts

what model / part numbers need to be used to repalce it - ie what heater core from the 'skyline' family fits ?

otherwise its around $500 to purchase the stagea item from japan.

my R33 core just packed it in too. the 300zx core is a match as stated and it will be a whore of a job. lucky summer is coming and we get a few months to deliberate.

wanna fly over to sydney and help?

lol I'll hold your beer

hahahaha

me no kneel

as from tomorrow 7am (13/9) wont have any kneecaps =(

for me, the tune shop will be doing the work =(

................. next winter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...