Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just took my r33 gtst out for a spin (the temperature here is about 40 degrees C) and it was running really rough, backfiring lots and stalling quite often. Could rev it while idling in neutral and the thing would just stall when u back off. The engine was surging a bit as well. It was running fine when I was driving it the night before.

Does anybody elses car run rough on hot days?

i have an r32 in the heat it sometimes idle's a little wild like jumps up to 2,000rpm and drops or idles high, but i usally let it sit for a while and it sorts it self out,

maybe in your case the your tunes not up to the hot weather?

do you have standard ecuor aftermarket??

i have a series 2 r33 and i was almost beaten by a vn commodore the other day when it was about 32degrees. i was disgusted. however im 95% sure this is because i have a pod filter on my car and it sucks in alot of hot air from the engine. im looking at getting some piping and mounting it to the front bar soon. but overall yes my car does run worse in the heat. i love driving on a nice cool night. so does the car!

I have the same problem. Yesterday and today the temps have been 38 and 41 and since yesterday when I went to start my car, that had been sitting out in the sun for about 4-5hrs, the car would idle at 700-800rpm but then drop down very low (100rpm) and then try to raise up again to 700rpm. Sometimes it would not raise the revs and just stall. If I start the car up and give it a little gas to raise the revs up to 1500-2000rpm for a bit the car settles down and drives normally. Has the heat damaged something in my car?

Thanks for the response MintR33. The idle problem only seems to happen when I start the car up after driving it for a while so the engine is still warm (or hot as the case has been the last couple of days with the weather in Adelaide!), I don't have the a/c on at this stage. Once the car has been driven for a short while the car idles normally at the lights even with the a/c on. I have just had the cooling system and a/c system fixed with all new parts, but the car was fine after all that work. It has only started with the extremely hot weather.

mine does the same, hell a barina sri kept up with my r33 gtst on a 40degree day.....i was like wtf?

i believe that if you have a pod filter shield it off, do whatever you can to get colder air in and should be a bit better. but yeah turbos sucking in hot air does't exactly make performance increase..

  • 4 weeks later...

It's not like I'm asking my car to do anything special. I'm not even wanting the car to perform well in 40 degrees just wanting it to idle normally and not stall.

I take it that others whose car has had idle issues in hot weather haven't been able to fix this problem?

Its not about performance in hot weather but as to why his car is basically not drivable in hot weather.
i have a series 2 r33 and i was almost beaten by a vn commodore the other day when it was about 32degrees. i was disgusted. however im 95% sure this is because i have a pod filter on my car and it sucks in alot of hot air from the engine. im looking at getting some piping and mounting it to the front bar soon. but overall yes my car does run worse in the heat. i love driving on a nice cool night. so does the car!
yeh, my car is a piece of shit in the hot weather...much slower
mine just feels like it has a little less power, apart from that the idle and everything else is fine in hot weather

...... do i need to point anything out further?

the post where i stated " its common sense turbo cars wont perform in hot weather " was directed towards them posts. and clearly... them posts are stating they are giving there car shit in hot weather and the cars not performing like they are used to in colder weather. i hope to god i dont have to explain WHY this is so...

...... do i need to point anything out further?

the post where i stated " its common sense turbo cars wont perform in hot weather " was directed towards them posts. and clearly... them posts are stating they are giving there car shit in hot weather and the cars not performing like they are used to in colder weather. i hope to god i dont have to explain WHY this is so...

Well im sure you could add something more constructive towards the issue that "understated" is having other then "yeah lets all go flog our turbo cars in 30-40 degree weather. realllll smart"

He isnt talking about flogging his car in the heat even if that seems to be where rochey took this thread in his battle against a vn commodore.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...