Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have put a RB20 silvertop into my R31.

I have bought a consult cable, one of the blitz ones.

I have installed everything, and directly wired it into the ecu wires.

But my software isn't picking the ECU up.

Is there anything special i have to do to get it working?

Also does anyone know what voltages are supose to be on the TX, RX, and CLK cables?

I am getting an error can't open my com port as well.

I am thinking this might be the problem.

But if anyone could give me the voltage readings, it would be greatly appreciated

Thanks for any help

Is this right?

Black = Ground

Blue = CLK

White = RX

Yellow = TX

Red = 12V

Edited by shaunmlawry
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145534-need-help-with-rb20-consult-cable/
Share on other sites

all the drivers are installed, and windows picks up the cable fine.

Its just all the programs that arn't picking up the ECU, only the free Conzult software says can't open port, the others try and find the ECU but can't

Is there any manual way of testing the consult cable?

all the drivers are installed, and windows picks up the cable fine.

Its just all the programs that arn't picking up the ECU, only the free Conzult software says can't open port, the others try and find the ECU but can't

Is there any manual way of testing the consult cable?

Did you connect RX to RX and TX to TX?

If so try swapping the RX and TX wires. For a serial connection you always connect RX on one connection to TX on the other, and vice versa.

are u using a true serial port or a usb dongle converted one?

try a real serial port, it may work better

Tried changing the TX and RX wires, still said can't find ECU.

The cable is a USB one, no serial port.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, this has me stumped

TX has about 10v

RX has .4v

And CLK has around 2.4V

Can someone with a USB cable maybe measure the voltage readings that they are getting on the cables in the USB plug just before they go into the computer, this should tell me if my cable is working properly.

Tomorrow i am gonna get a mates computer and see if it works on it, it might just be my laptop

Thanks again

Edited by shaunmlawry

CLK is correct (~5V @ 50% dutycycle = 2.5v)

transmit from ECU (ie, TX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->5v (somewhere in between) when connected

receive from ECU (RX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->12v roughly, depending on whether pc is transmitting or not.

what is ur ECU serial number? (23710-xxxxx). early R32 ecu's (until ~9/89) didnt have consult capabilities.

Edited by NewKleer
CLK is correct (~5V @ 50% dutycycle = 2.5v)

transmit from ECU (ie, TX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->5v (somewhere in between) when connected

receive from ECU (RX on ecu pinout) should measure 0->12v roughly, depending on whether pc is transmitting or not.

what is ur ECU serial number? (23710-xxxxx). early R32 ecu's (until ~9/89) didnt have consult capabilities.

23710-73L10

I tried the cable with another computer and it still wouldn't pick up my ECU

Thats probably the problem, my ECU doesn't support it

Thanks for the help

ur ecu is from an a31 cefiro - they dont support consult.

youll need an r32 ecu. dont get any of these (i think the rest should be ok):

23710-04U00

23710-04U10

23710-04U11

thats on assumption a31 motor can work with r32 without any changes, if u have an a31 motor

Edited by NewKleer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...