Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps

Decided to sell my car, so have no use for these bits, all whiteline gear is brand new.

Arospeed Adjustable Cam Gears (suit rb20/25/26) - SOLD

Whiteline front camber kit (KCA336) - $250

Whiteline rear camber kit (KCA347) - $125

Whiteline caster kit (KCA331) - $125

Whiteline subframe alignment (KCA349) - $100

Can take the whole lot of suspension for $500 ($100 off) otherwise prices aren't negotiable for individual items and don't include postage.

I also have a heap of spare parts off my rb20 replaced due to my upgrades on the car, standard injectors, standard fuel pump, standard afm, standard piping, one rear hub, standard intake (from filter to turbo), some coils, a catch-can (with or without breather), standard stater motor and also a standard rb20 turbo with a bearing problem (whinges on anythin about 10psi).

Feel free to call me on 0407476022 or reply on here on PM me!

Thanks all

post-7888-1165117170.jpg

post-7888-1165117178.jpg

Edited by jazza08
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145729-skyline-parts/
Share on other sites

castor kit consists of radius rod end bushes?

If you still have the castor kit and rear camber kit after the Xmas period I'll probably take them.. the Mrs has kerbed the car spending over the holiday period :thumbsdown:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145729-skyline-parts/#findComment-2727328
Share on other sites

No worries Lyell, just msg me when you want to buy and ill let you know if i still have them. Looks like a mate wants to take the lot of suspension as he noticed the price quickly lol

Price's aren't negotiable peeps, items are brand new remember.

Castor kit comes with 2 rods and 2 bushes, any questions you can ask SK as its from his group buy, ive just taken abit off the price as i dont need them!

Pm sent in regards to the catch can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145729-skyline-parts/#findComment-2728171
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...