Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my car has been in the garage since the start of october and its set to get new turbos due to the blown ones, however i want to check the compression b4 towing it off to the workshop and finding out that i need a rebuild. i havnt bought the turbos yet incase i need a rebuild, because if i do i will probaly sell the car as is :)

i dont know what other tools you need for compression tests but ive got socket set already so if anyone can come and do a test for me id more then appreciate it! i can offer a case of beer if anyones interested! since thats the usual form of currency around here for help lol :)

im in the western suburbs of sydney (blacktown area)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145806-compression-test/
Share on other sites

i have comp thingy but car sould be warm i think to test. I live just down the road if you need a hand let me know when, i do shift work so maybe be hard finding a day when we are both off.

working arvos all week and off next monday and tuesday

wel i started the car for the first time since i knew it was blown (october) and it idles fine with no unordinary noises.. i let it idle till it was upto operating temps.. im assuming my engine is fine by the looks of how its going! but yeah just to make sure

blk180: cool would it be ok for a monday or tuesday next week? anytime monday but tuesday would have to be before about 2pm.

In this case you don't need accurate reading, you can do a cold test , you will see if all the cylinders are the same. First do a cold test, if they are all the same , start the engine warm it up and do a proper test . Leakdown test would be good too.

did a cold start today with the help of blk180 (thanks mate)

1- 135

2- 130

3- 115

4- 135

5- 130

6- 135

those were the results, couldnt do cylinder 3 again cuz my battery died lol

Number 3 looks a bit sus, was it the last one to test ? If yes the battery could have been low and cranking it slower than the others . If it was done in order number 3 is not as healthy as the others. Leakdown test will be more comprehensive . Did the front turbo let go? Did you do a comp test ever before this happened?

yeah number 3 worries me as well. the cylinders were done in order. unfortunantly i never got around to doing a compression test ever lol this was the first time.

not sure which turbo, let go ill be bringing it to hills motorsport once my turbos arrive. ill get a leakdown test while its there as well.

but yeah i havnt turned on the car since october

yeah number 3 worries me as well. the cylinders were done in order. unfortunantly i never got around to doing a compression test ever lol this was the first time.

not sure which turbo, let go ill be bringing it to hills motorsport once my turbos arrive. ill get a leakdown test while its there as well.

but yeah i havnt turned on the car since october

So you don't really know that a turbo/turbos let go, right ? If you have a cat undo the the cat where it joins the front pipes and check in there . Have you checked the wastegates to make sure they dont stay open?

im gna go and check my cat right now.

not to sure how to check the wastegates though

edit: dammit i dont have my jack. im pretty sure the turbo let go though as i heard the peices in my cat when it was idling before

The rods should be all the way to the front when the gats are shut . If you have a compressor undo the hose and pump 10 psi or so the rods should move to the rear thn the gates open . If you can blow 10-12 psi you can do that too but you must have strong lungs .. Look in the cat first and if you dont find anything there then look at the gates ... One of the gates open you won't have any boost, any leaks in the system ( blown cooler or pipe ) you wont have vacium ( or maybe very little vacium ).

What kind of turbos are you buying?

im jus getting the slide hi flow turbos.

not to sure how to check that so i better not do it incase i break it even more lol. but ill check the cat asap.

ive just changed my cooler pipes to a hardpipe kit so that cancels it out and cooler is all good.

Before you condem the enigne i would be getting a cylinder leakage test for all you know it could be a valve not seatings find out where the compression is leaking from before you give the engine a full rebuild.. As a mechanic i seen lots of people pay for a full rebuild when its been a valve not seating.. get the cars properly check before condeming the whole engine.. my lil 2 cents add ;) just a thought... but still if u wanna check if it is the compression rings doa wet test as it is called in the industry, this will tell you if it is the rings not sealing..

  • 2 months later...

hey guys just an update, got my car back today!!!

i got my new slide hi flow turbos installed along with xforce dumps & got my hks evc III @ 1bar.

engine was A-OK the rear turbo blew and went into my cat :ninja::)

ill be getting it dyno'd on saturday & will be attending the sau vs. v8 drag day on the 25th, so ill post up the results soon :(

THANKS AGAIN TO THE GREAT WORK FROM THE GUYS AT NBP (Northern Beaches Performance)!!! and of course all the help from SAU'ers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...