Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my car has been in the garage since the start of october and its set to get new turbos due to the blown ones, however i want to check the compression b4 towing it off to the workshop and finding out that i need a rebuild. i havnt bought the turbos yet incase i need a rebuild, because if i do i will probaly sell the car as is :)

i dont know what other tools you need for compression tests but ive got socket set already so if anyone can come and do a test for me id more then appreciate it! i can offer a case of beer if anyones interested! since thats the usual form of currency around here for help lol :)

im in the western suburbs of sydney (blacktown area)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/145806-compression-test/
Share on other sites

i have comp thingy but car sould be warm i think to test. I live just down the road if you need a hand let me know when, i do shift work so maybe be hard finding a day when we are both off.

working arvos all week and off next monday and tuesday

wel i started the car for the first time since i knew it was blown (october) and it idles fine with no unordinary noises.. i let it idle till it was upto operating temps.. im assuming my engine is fine by the looks of how its going! but yeah just to make sure

blk180: cool would it be ok for a monday or tuesday next week? anytime monday but tuesday would have to be before about 2pm.

In this case you don't need accurate reading, you can do a cold test , you will see if all the cylinders are the same. First do a cold test, if they are all the same , start the engine warm it up and do a proper test . Leakdown test would be good too.

did a cold start today with the help of blk180 (thanks mate)

1- 135

2- 130

3- 115

4- 135

5- 130

6- 135

those were the results, couldnt do cylinder 3 again cuz my battery died lol

Number 3 looks a bit sus, was it the last one to test ? If yes the battery could have been low and cranking it slower than the others . If it was done in order number 3 is not as healthy as the others. Leakdown test will be more comprehensive . Did the front turbo let go? Did you do a comp test ever before this happened?

yeah number 3 worries me as well. the cylinders were done in order. unfortunantly i never got around to doing a compression test ever lol this was the first time.

not sure which turbo, let go ill be bringing it to hills motorsport once my turbos arrive. ill get a leakdown test while its there as well.

but yeah i havnt turned on the car since october

yeah number 3 worries me as well. the cylinders were done in order. unfortunantly i never got around to doing a compression test ever lol this was the first time.

not sure which turbo, let go ill be bringing it to hills motorsport once my turbos arrive. ill get a leakdown test while its there as well.

but yeah i havnt turned on the car since october

So you don't really know that a turbo/turbos let go, right ? If you have a cat undo the the cat where it joins the front pipes and check in there . Have you checked the wastegates to make sure they dont stay open?

im gna go and check my cat right now.

not to sure how to check the wastegates though

edit: dammit i dont have my jack. im pretty sure the turbo let go though as i heard the peices in my cat when it was idling before

The rods should be all the way to the front when the gats are shut . If you have a compressor undo the hose and pump 10 psi or so the rods should move to the rear thn the gates open . If you can blow 10-12 psi you can do that too but you must have strong lungs .. Look in the cat first and if you dont find anything there then look at the gates ... One of the gates open you won't have any boost, any leaks in the system ( blown cooler or pipe ) you wont have vacium ( or maybe very little vacium ).

What kind of turbos are you buying?

im jus getting the slide hi flow turbos.

not to sure how to check that so i better not do it incase i break it even more lol. but ill check the cat asap.

ive just changed my cooler pipes to a hardpipe kit so that cancels it out and cooler is all good.

Before you condem the enigne i would be getting a cylinder leakage test for all you know it could be a valve not seatings find out where the compression is leaking from before you give the engine a full rebuild.. As a mechanic i seen lots of people pay for a full rebuild when its been a valve not seating.. get the cars properly check before condeming the whole engine.. my lil 2 cents add ;) just a thought... but still if u wanna check if it is the compression rings doa wet test as it is called in the industry, this will tell you if it is the rings not sealing..

  • 2 months later...

hey guys just an update, got my car back today!!!

i got my new slide hi flow turbos installed along with xforce dumps & got my hks evc III @ 1bar.

engine was A-OK the rear turbo blew and went into my cat :ninja::)

ill be getting it dyno'd on saturday & will be attending the sau vs. v8 drag day on the 25th, so ill post up the results soon :(

THANKS AGAIN TO THE GREAT WORK FROM THE GUYS AT NBP (Northern Beaches Performance)!!! and of course all the help from SAU'ers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...