Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Changed my oil on the weekend and when i was pouring the used oil back into a container, a sandy grit was present on the bottom of the container the oil drained into when i emptied it from the car.

Where would this have come from?

Im guessing its the dodgy stainless mesh pod filter that came on my car letting crap into the engine.

I was horrified when i saw the grit in the oil.

Has this happened to anyone else?

Im thinking about getting a new pod filter now, i was looking on justjap.com at one of the apexi power intakes. Is this a good choice to go with?

thanks for any help.

cheers

are you sure it was sand? cause in that case it most probably would have gone in through the intake and perhaps scored the bores

could it be metal? have you just had your engine rebuilt?

nah havnt had the engine rebuilt.

Im pretty sure it was little bits of dirt and grit.

Was only very small but i know thats still enough to scores the bores.

Who knows, the previous owner in japan probably ran it without an air filter.

cheers

was it dispersed through the oil or at the bottom of the pan?

if its dispersed through the oil, then i have no idea what it is, maybe the oilk filter itself? or somethign worse?

if its on the bottom, i'd say its mroe likely that your pan was dirty before you drained the car

think about it.. oil is pretty viscous and grit isn't going to sink to the bottom and settle in a matter of minutes like it might with a less viscous solution such as water...

best of luck,

Warren

I cut open the old filter and there was nothing in it.

Im guessing that when i twisted off my old oil filter i must of brushed off some sandy shit from somewhere in my engine bay and it has fallen down into the pan.

cheers

i've had this happen regularly across 2 cars so it can't be particles in the oil. no reliability problems (touch wood :D) out of either car they have both been perfect motors.

i'm going along with the dirty oil pan + washing dirt down into the pan when you pull the old oil filter off and oil gushes down the side of the block.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...