Jump to content
SAU Community

One Of Adelaide's Toughest Street S13s........over $30k Spent.....


Recommended Posts

For sale: 1990 S13 Silvia

Asking Price: $16,000 firm

Kilometre's: 70,000 (exact km when I next see car)

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual 5-speed

Engine Type: SR20DET 2.0 RED TOP

Complianced: Yes, this car is not a 15y/o import. It was fully complied.

Road Worth Certificate: N/A in South Australia

Registration: Yes, car has some registration still remaining on it.

Modifications:

This car is so extensively modified that some modifications may have been forgotten...

Body

Custom yellow paint with black roof. This is a one of a kind colour that I mixed personally. It is as bright as yellow can get.

Genuine Origin Stylish Front Bumper

Genuine Origin Stylish Side Skirts

Genuine Origin Stylish Rear Bar

20mm wider vented front guards

Custom FULL METAL 40mm wide body rear ($1700rrp)

15mm bonnet spacers fitted for cooling

Shaved boot with no wing

All badges and side moulds removed

All bodywork has been completed by none other than M&C Doyle Auto Refinishers, so it is premium quality.

Brakes

Full GT-R brake upgrade with 5-stud conversion

R32 GT-R discs and calipers all round

R32 GT-R drum handbrake setup (with custom brackets to mount lines etc)

Suspension

Adjustable rose jointed castor rods

Castor rod brace (supplied but not fitted)

Adjustable rose jointed rear camber arms

Adjustable rose jointed traction rods

Adjustable rose jointed rear toe arms

Metal cradle bushes

Solid gearbox mount (supplied but not fitted)

Solid steering shaft spacer

Top of the line fully adjustable Silk Road/Section RMA8 coilovers (adjustable king pin, camber, height, damper, body)

8 kg front springs

6 kg rear springs

27mm solid Whiteline S13 front swaybar

24mm solid Whiteline R32 GT-R rear swarbar

15mm hubcentric bolt on spacers on front

Engine

1994 SR20DET redtop

3 inch mandrel bent front/dump pipe

3 inch mandrel bent exhaust system

JunBL Racing Spiral dual outlet muffler with trumpet tips (Exhaust Technology special)

Genuine Hybrid intercooler

Genuine Hybrid intercooler piping kit

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Cold air intake with pod filter

Custom oil catch can (lies across fan shroud, but not currently hooked up)

Car has made 165rwkW on 1 bar boost. Easily spins 4th gear during drift.

Driveline

Extreme 5-puck button clutch

Cusco 1.5 way mechanical LSD

Interior

Car is fully stripped inside. All that remains are door trims and dash.

Car is registered as a two seater allowing legal roll cage to be fitted, and bucket seats.

Sparco Sprint full bucket seats (Driver AND passenger)

Sparco deep dish rally wheel

Sparco gearknob

4 point race harness (supplied but not fitted)

Spin turn handbrake button

Rolling Stock:

The car will be sold with a set of 17x9.5 +15 Koya Driftek’s fitted.

For an additional $1000 the Drifteks will be replaced by the Work Emotion CR-Kai’s as seen in the photos (17x9 +17 front, 18x9.5 +12 rear).

Other Notes:

This car is exceptionally well set up. It has been aligned many times by Scotty at AVS Suspension to find the perfect setup. It feels extremely stable and predictable at all speeds. Aussie and CRAB 86 can vouch for this. The car is more than competitive at any level with the right driver, be it Super Drift OR Drift Australia.

It has covered about 3000km (if that) in my hands since I purchased it over 3 years ago. The car has had 3 oil changes in that time using only premium products. The car is currently running Elf motor oil, and Martini Racing gearbox and diff oil. It has always been maintained to the highest standard. It will be sad to see her go.

Pictures:

DSC03498.jpg

DSC03497.jpg

DSC03230-copy.jpg

DSC03220-copy.jpg

DSC03225-copy.jpg

Contact detail's: Benny Mack – 0410 278 984 or PM me on here.....

road registration?

sorry if i didnt see it in the essay description... :P

as in... did your N/A mean "is not available"... or "not applicable" for RWC?

Edited by SAZilla

We don't have roadworthy certificates in South Australia. The car has full SA rego, which is all you need to take it interstate and transfer it etc. This car can be driven on the street which is rare of something this modified....i spent a lot of time clearing a defect I had on it so people could enjoy it more.

Thanks for the support guys. The car is still for sale if anyone is looking for a pre built drift car that has had hardly any drift done in it (G1 and 2 practice days). Everything is still fresh and car drives beautifully.

Yeah motor itself is internally standard with most standard bolt on bits etc.

Was never necessary to make more power than it does. That is for the next owner to work on......$2k and it'd make 220rwkW reliably....i just can't justify doing it to sell the car, hence the cheap price.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...