Jump to content
SAU Community
  • Welcome to SAU Community

    Welcome to SAU Community, like most online communities you must register to view or post in our community, but don't worry this is a simple free process that requires minimal information for you to signup. Be apart of SAU Community by signing in or creating an account.

    • Start new topics and reply to others
    • Subscribe to topics and forums to get email updates
    • Get your own profile page, build reputation and make new friends
    • Send personal messages to other members.
    • See fewer ads!

    Consider joining our newsletter for the latest content updates

    Click here to register


One Of Adelaide's Toughest Street S13s........over $30k Spent.....


Recommended Posts

For sale: 1990 S13 Silvia

Asking Price: $16,000 firm

Kilometre's: 70,000 (exact km when I next see car)

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual 5-speed

Engine Type: SR20DET 2.0 RED TOP

Complianced: Yes, this car is not a 15y/o import. It was fully complied.

Road Worth Certificate: N/A in South Australia

Registration: Yes, car has some registration still remaining on it.

Modifications:

This car is so extensively modified that some modifications may have been forgotten...

Body

Custom yellow paint with black roof. This is a one of a kind colour that I mixed personally. It is as bright as yellow can get.

Genuine Origin Stylish Front Bumper

Genuine Origin Stylish Side Skirts

Genuine Origin Stylish Rear Bar

20mm wider vented front guards

Custom FULL METAL 40mm wide body rear ($1700rrp)

15mm bonnet spacers fitted for cooling

Shaved boot with no wing

All badges and side moulds removed

All bodywork has been completed by none other than M&C Doyle Auto Refinishers, so it is premium quality.

Brakes

Full GT-R brake upgrade with 5-stud conversion

R32 GT-R discs and calipers all round

R32 GT-R drum handbrake setup (with custom brackets to mount lines etc)

Suspension

Adjustable rose jointed castor rods

Castor rod brace (supplied but not fitted)

Adjustable rose jointed rear camber arms

Adjustable rose jointed traction rods

Adjustable rose jointed rear toe arms

Metal cradle bushes

Solid gearbox mount (supplied but not fitted)

Solid steering shaft spacer

Top of the line fully adjustable Silk Road/Section RMA8 coilovers (adjustable king pin, camber, height, damper, body)

8 kg front springs

6 kg rear springs

27mm solid Whiteline S13 front swaybar

24mm solid Whiteline R32 GT-R rear swarbar

15mm hubcentric bolt on spacers on front

Engine

1994 SR20DET redtop

3 inch mandrel bent front/dump pipe

3 inch mandrel bent exhaust system

JunBL Racing Spiral dual outlet muffler with trumpet tips (Exhaust Technology special)

Genuine Hybrid intercooler

Genuine Hybrid intercooler piping kit

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Cold air intake with pod filter

Custom oil catch can (lies across fan shroud, but not currently hooked up)

Car has made 165rwkW on 1 bar boost. Easily spins 4th gear during drift.

Driveline

Extreme 5-puck button clutch

Cusco 1.5 way mechanical LSD

Interior

Car is fully stripped inside. All that remains are door trims and dash.

Car is registered as a two seater allowing legal roll cage to be fitted, and bucket seats.

Sparco Sprint full bucket seats (Driver AND passenger)

Sparco deep dish rally wheel

Sparco gearknob

4 point race harness (supplied but not fitted)

Spin turn handbrake button

Rolling Stock:

The car will be sold with a set of 17x9.5 +15 Koya Driftek’s fitted.

For an additional $1000 the Drifteks will be replaced by the Work Emotion CR-Kai’s as seen in the photos (17x9 +17 front, 18x9.5 +12 rear).

Other Notes:

This car is exceptionally well set up. It has been aligned many times by Scotty at AVS Suspension to find the perfect setup. It feels extremely stable and predictable at all speeds. Aussie and CRAB 86 can vouch for this. The car is more than competitive at any level with the right driver, be it Super Drift OR Drift Australia.

It has covered about 3000km (if that) in my hands since I purchased it over 3 years ago. The car has had 3 oil changes in that time using only premium products. The car is currently running Elf motor oil, and Martini Racing gearbox and diff oil. It has always been maintained to the highest standard. It will be sad to see her go.

Pictures:

DSC03498.jpg

DSC03497.jpg

DSC03230-copy.jpg

DSC03220-copy.jpg

DSC03225-copy.jpg

Contact detail's: Benny Mack – 0410 278 984 or PM me on here.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We don't have roadworthy certificates in South Australia. The car has full SA rego, which is all you need to take it interstate and transfer it etc. This car can be driven on the street which is rare of something this modified....i spent a lot of time clearing a defect I had on it so people could enjoy it more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Crack pipe coupled with JDM yo coupled with "I know what I got". The only thing missing is old logo Nismo.
    • I am noticing more and more HKS T51 turbos and full kits popping up for sale second hand. People asking $5k plus for turbos and around $10k for a kit which includes turbo, manifold, dump and waste gate. Are these becoming a collectors item or are people hitting some serious gear while typing. I priced up my brand new precision 7685 gen2 as a full kit and even if I go full RRP and include ceramic coating and beanie and oil/water lines, I’m still under $10k.    Am I having a man look and missing something abvious?
    • So, that adventure with hairdryers didn't quite work. It also gave me COVID. So I thought I got a brain cell and remembered to pull a bulb out this time, so the vapor could escape before using a heat gun to get the moisture out. Unfortunately in doing so I melted/marred the lens. _f**k_ So I got a brain cell and took it out of the car, removing the bulbs and let it actually evaporate, and decided to try my best to sand down the headlight to remove the marring. This was reasonably great, and the internet said I could spray some clear over this and get a nice UV resistant protective shine. Sweet. What could go wrong? Above ^-- what can go wrong. This happens if you spray like a retard on a too cold day. For bonus points, the above photo is AFTER it has been sanded down. The cracks are actually embedded into the plastic because it would appear that Acrylic clear actually chemically reacts to the plastic in R34 headlights? f**kin major sads. I then decided to pull the headlight apart, aided by my heat gun, and figured well, it's time to REALLY get sanding. I used these tools for multiple hours, multiple sheets, ranging from 40 grit (yes!!!!! on a power tool) to 2000 grit. Over the course of a few days it resulted in this.... Eventually this actually did work, once I exhausted my sanding I used a Cerakote headlight restoral kit, which came up pretty damn excellent, and by "Excellent" I mean it looked like my other un-molested headlight. But then... the moisture retuuuurned. This time I used science to get the moisture out, as it didn't come out over time by just leaving the headlight open, or as I had hoped - Driving the car with the bulbs removed. Given this opens into my airbox, I would think THE ENGINE would suck the moisture out. Nope. Once dry, I used black sikaflex in the mouldings in an effort to make the damn thing seal, with a lot of tape to protect my ... somewhat usable headlights. It has not since misted/monsooned up. I think I may have sealed it right the first time, but not have actually got the moisture out, or sealed it all in a warm area then it would condense when cold. In any case, now it does not condense on its own while cold, and should be damn sealed with sickaflex everywhere, given I am now very intimate with how these things go together and come apart. Onto the next issue with moisture. My OEM oil pressure sensor seemed to do impossible things. At hot idle it would show 2-3 bar, and then at the next stop it would show... 1 bar. It also didn't really correspond to higher RPM properly. Because oil pressure shouldn't really behave like that I was somewhat confused. I checked my other oil pressure gauge on the other end of the Accusump and this behaved properly when revving the car, and was holding between 45 and 60psi (phew). Still this gauge made me sad. So I looked to how it was installed, my power steering leak causing issues in the past, I wondered if there was a leak that was messing with the reading of the sender. The sender grounds to the block and is 1/8 BSPT. The hole in the oil adapter is a 1/8 NPT. There was an adaptor already in there, and after messing with it, it looks to be the same thread as my oil temp sensor which is drilled into the oil block at the top, which VDO state is 1/8 NPTF. These were definitely all different from one another as I fiddled with them by hand. It looked as though the adapter in there with tape was a 1/8 NPTF extension. In any case, what I needed was a 1/8 NPT Male to 1/8 BSPT female extension. So I ordered that, and received an Aeroflow 1/8 BSPT Male to 1/8 NPT female. Which threaded together pretty easily until I did this to it. Yes, it snapped off inside the oil block adapter. Yes, I had to remove it from the car and drill/unthread it out. I then realized I got sent the wrong product, and the company that I bought it from sent me the correct product. My car sat on a 45 degree angle in the driveway with the oil block removed so oil wouldn't drain out in the interim. I received the correct part and now 1) I do not have any leaks 2) Oil pressure shows 45psi at idle, and increases with revs correctly in the OEM cluster (the 34 one responds very quickly) and I now get 60psi+ at 3-4k. Likely more past that but I didn't go redlining like a hoon. 3) It may be a placebo but less tapping from the engine while driving it around. In any case I have no leaks and very stout oil pressure. I have also ordered my bodykit parts for my ugly tetris block. The ETA on that is 11 weeks. I fully expect to annihilate the lip multiple times, so I am going to raise the car 20mm to get back to those mythical sydneykid specs at 360/350mm as I realised my car actually sits 340/340. Yes I bought a bodykit and will raise the car. I do strange things.  
    • Awesome. Thank you Duncan. I'll be ordering from them. They got some good prices.  Edit: Went ahead and ordered their stage 2, gonna need the rest of the "while I'm in there parts" free shipping so thats a plus. 
    • Well, welcome back. Unfortunately I don't have, and don't know where to get, the M35 manual, I only have the C34 one.
×
×
  • Create New...