Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mre, don't u find that after about 6500 rpm the power tends to ease off a bit? i back off the accelerator at about 6000rpm and so it usually reacts by 6500rpm and changes then i floor it again...seems to keep the car in optimum torque range but i think this causes you to lose boost. only really works for 1st -> 2nd gear but just thought someone else may have used this approach...

Well I took my car to CES Racing in Bris to get my exhaust changed and we did a dyno to show before and after. It wasn't in Shootout mode just normal and it got 146rwkw completely stock. The car is just a few days old and nothing has been touched. I thought this is a bit hight for a stock gts specially an auto, is it?

Also they hooked a boost gauge up just for the dyno and it only runs 5psi when it should be like 6 or 7psi?

Well I'm not complaining but yeah the twin dump full exhaust should be a good boost. Also getting the car dynoed after the exhaust tomorrow so will be interesting to see how much better it is... I cant wait :rolleyes:

Plus next friday I'm getting the S-AFC II and the ebc installed and tuned as well. Will probaly run the boost to at least 12psi. Anyone think over 190rwkw with the auto is possible with only these mods?

Well I got quite a surprise when it made 177rwkw with the new exhaust. Had no idea it would give that much more.

I couldn't get the dyno sheet cause the shop was already shut when I picked it up and I just picked it up from the front but yeah so far completely stock automatic r33 except the exhaust.

Could it of been the dyno? It was a Bosch Power Test dyno. Does this matter or affect it?

From what i have seen the C.E.S twin dump systems seem to make similar top end to other 3" systems but they seem to make more mid-range power.

My gf's auto S14 ran a best of 13.759@102mph@willowbank with C.E.S 3" HPC twin dump system, O2 rush pod filter & 14psi.

It's best 60ft was 2.16 & i found that stalling it up on the line & having it just turn the tyres slowly then off the brake, i would get a little bit of wheelspin but because i had about 5psi off the line it would 60ft well.

The fastest 200sx in Oz before the green ghost was a low 12 @ 120ish mph with std auto & 3000rpm dominator convertor.

The skyline uses the same auto!

Yes 3000rpm convertor from dominator convertors, but you don't need to spend that much money to get one, you can get your std one done for $250-$300 from The convertor shop in Brisbane as i previously said. It may be an idea to even get a bigger trans cooler for longevity. And change the trans oil @ least every 20000km with genuine Nissan oil which is a synthetic, we get ours from the local Nissan dealer & just take in a 5L container & they fill it from there 44gallon drum. It only takes about an hour to change it, Its a good idea to remove the pan & clean the mesh filter as well, but make sure you clean it all perfectly as you don't want ANY crap getting into the internals of the auto, & from memory the gasket was about $50. My mate has been using Mobils auto trans replacement oil in his 300zx but changes it every 10000km or so which maybe another option but it is not synthetic, hence the reason he changes it more often.

i was running up to 12 psi boost on mine.

I have heard from many people that the JATCO auto gearbox in the jap cars are not good for anything over 180rwkw. You will spit it out like I did.

Get a manual. you have a 4.3:1 dif ratio.. you will get a second difference down the quarter

hi,

mines an auto with 170rwKW. it changes or bounc at around

7150 RPM.

but to be honest my stock turbo gives less after about 6500.

when i used to run i backed off at just before redline and the box quickly shift, then i hammer it again (you will feel that the clutch packs will bites much harder then letting the computer shift.

i would not recommend high stalling the converter if the car is going to be drove regularly as it is already bloody thirsty!!!

do what MRE did of holding the handbrake as well when launching

and yes!!! AUTOs are much quicker than everyone thought!!!!

ron

Hey Ron, yeah they are quicker then I thought it'd be :)

But I have 177rwkw although I have a big flatspot at 110 where my power is completely linear upto this point but drops to 60rwkw which sucks. Then by 140kph its back up and by 180kph its at 177rwkw.

This is a really annoying dip but I dont go past 110 often but I think its something to do with the stock bov. Does anyone know what could cause such a dip? I think its around the gear change.

And I feel the most power over 6000rpm... heh its weird. Apparently I dont reach my max boost efficiency with my turbo until then, according to the guy who dynoed it. Im only running 5psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems to be the case mate , still an OK price for a grey import.
    • I’m interested in the carbon diffuser fins and Toshiba MFD screen replacement if they’re still available.
    • @GTSBoy yeah i know it was not the "great" idea but it is and option...but i think i will stay on no BoV rather then trying to make it work with "half" this and that. But that GReddy FV2 is cool...i like that you can make it like stock if you want (and have/make the custom pipes) For other thanks! it was alot of information. But for the sound...a dont rly "like" both of them...specialy if they are loud...but if i "must" choose i would rather have little whooosh rather than sutututu with no BoV....BUT that is what is i gonna get. So for the all info i gather. In my case:  No BoV is not that bad cuz it is stock...and iam used to put N/clutch right after rpms are around 1000 so it should be ok...just need to avoid "big" drops. But i do not have the engine in the car so i do not really know how "bad" or good it is. But as i had that little test drive it looked ok. The atmo BoV should be worse car would dump to much fuel specialy between the shifts...so without proper tune/ECU i dont want that. BUT with that...car should drive ok with no problems right? (i do like there is less piping wih this solution) 🙂 
    • Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.
    • They aren't, but it depends on what interests you about an R32-R34. If it's the front engine I6 turbo that tunes well with a manual transmission an E92 335i 6MT is so incredibly cheap. You can get a super clean one for 20-25k USD tops. Put an LSD in it, tune it, have fun with it. If it's the general idea of AWD + turbo and a manual transmission the 996 Turbo is absolutely much more expensive, it's less practical but it's also basically a complete track-ready car from the factory. At least the Mezger doesn't have heaps of oil control issues. And in the US the 996 Turbo and R33 GTR are roughly the same price these days. 996 maybe a bit more now that the hype has abated for old Skylines here.
×
×
  • Create New...