Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

more questions: is it nescesary to hpc coat a SS front pipe? [or any other heat treatment?] I was hoping to just bolt it straight on - given the fact that the turbo is stock and only a mild 10psi of boost [factory is 8psi] - will temps be okay without heat treatment?

Thanks guys!

Hey Guys,

Hope this doesn't sound like real stupid question but how much of a difference will a dump pipe really make? If you had an Apexi N1 front pipe bolted up to a standard dump pipe, would you notice any power gains if you fitted a larger dump pipe?, even having the front pipe on alone?

Also what do you think is better doing in that case, getting a dump & front pipe combo, or having an Apexi N1 front pipe and then getting a custom dump pipe or somthing like a hks dump pipe?

Thanks men,

Gianni

Hello go to www.flyn.com.au they have them there for $280, they also have cat's, exhausts and other high performance stuff.

Attachment: wpe43145.jpg

I like the look of this dump & front pipe combo turbomad! Do you recomend this mob coz they look like they know there stuff and by looking at the pic of the combo dump & front pipe, it looks like it's been constructed very well! Would you know if this dump/front pipe will bolt straight up with no hassles meaning it won't rumble on the floor pan or be touching the fire wall making a racket?

It shouldn't make a difference if I have an Apexi N1 cat back system would it?

Regards,

Gianni

Originally posted by SteveL

I've PM'd him so hopefully will find out what's going on....if that deals gone tho, JMS have SS dump pipes for $350:

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm

or combined dump front pipes for $325:

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock4.htm

[doesn't say whether they're SS tho...probably not].

I was really after the cat too

Just noticed that on the first link you posted Steve http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm, they also have these:

"New stainless front pipes to suit Skyline R32-33

and SR20 S13, S14, S15 silvia/180SX ~ $350" See pic below.

So dont worry about the MS for $325 - spend the extra $25 :mad:

This price for an SS front pipe was similar to batmbl's I think! [if you cant get it anymore].

I am still trying to figure out if all the 32/33 front pipes will fit my car, any takers? Please!

Hey turbomad and SeriesIIGTST,

sounds like a good idea buying the dump/front pipe from Flyn Performance! I would really like to hear from the two of you on what your thought's are on the quality of these pipes you bought and how well they bolt up to factory spec's and perform!

Should be very Interesting! As soon as I get some money together I think I'll have to join you guys!

By the way SeriesIIGTST, did you also buy the dump/front pipe combo? What I really want to know is if you have an Apexi N1 cat back exhaust with standard cat, will this combo dump/front pipe bolt straight on to a 3" high flow cat with the N1 bolted to the rear of the cat and then the combo dump/front pipe bolt straight onto the turbo housing with no troubles? sounds like a bit of a mouth full hey!

All the best guy's and hope to hear from you soom in regards to how good the combo pipes are you purchased from Flyn Performance,

Regards,

Gianni

Originally posted by Gianni

Hey Guys,

Hope this doesn't sound like real stupid question but how much of a difference will a dump pipe really make?

Its not so much a power gain you get with a dump pipe but rather a shifting of the power somewhat. The turbo comes on boost alot earlier meaning your getting alot more midrange power with not alot of gain at the top.

So your dyno chart might not show much difference in terms of the peak number, but it will look alot fatter in the middle, which is where you want it.

Of course theres no point putting the dump on if youve still got the standard front pipe. You could do the front pipe before the dump but the gains wouldnt be anywhere near as good as having both the dump+front.

Since putting the dump on my 32 I would say the turbo is hitting full boost close to a thousand rpm earlier. Bottom end on the RB20 has been beefed up significantly. Before it felt a bit choked.

Red17

Gianni,

Sorry dude, I don't have an N1 front pipe so I can't really help you. I ordered the one piece dump/front pipe which, with any luck, will cleanly bolt onto my cat and my turbo without modification.

Will keep you informed as it happens...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...