Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP! Engine Shudder!

AtomicBomberMan

By AtomicBomberMan,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

AtomicBomberMan Experienced

AtomicBomberMan

Posted
Posted

I was wondering if anyone has or has had the same problem as me. im driving my car and every so often (cant pinpoint a specific rev range) it shudders. the pedal goes to floor, the engine splutters, but there is no power at all! this is only for a few seconds and then everything seems to be ok again. but sometimes it is so serious, i have to pull over. one time the catalytic converter light came on for a moment. its like a giant miss! originally i thought it was the afms, so i took them off and had them cleaned. but the problem is still there. i know i should take it to the mechanic. but was wondering iif i could fix the problem myself for the meantime. any suggestions? car is an r32 gtr.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AtomicBomberMan Experienced

AtomicBomberMan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Arrrrrrgh! help! i have taken it to the mechanic.... and you know the story.... the car is well behaved and cannot get the problem to occur at all. just now i changed all the spark plugs, from 6's to 7's. the car went in for a major today, and my mechanic (chapman automotive) told me that the spark plugs were ok. just to be on the safe side, if it were faulty spark plugs, i wanted a set i could changeover to. after changing them over. it drove quite nicely. but then, there it was. but this time, when it did happen, it was terrible. my car was crawling shuddering and spluttering all the way home. i had to pull over a few times. the car just wouldnt go! when i pushed the accelerator, it burbled thru the whole rev range. now when it sits, it idles nicely and then drops to the point of stall (but doesnt) and then idles nicely again! i am too worried to drive it anymore. please help! my mechanic is very far away! in this service the afm's were cleaned. so that eliminates that possibilty. please help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nismoman18 Mentor

nismoman18

Posted
Posted

Is the AFM connected properly? Is the mechanic trustworthy, couldve done foulplay with ur car so u bring it back to him and pay MORE money. It sounds like sumthing is leaking, loss of compression. get the timing checked, retuned etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
Guest VuDuDoc

Guest VuDuDoc

Posted
Posted

bump

im having the same problem......what are the specs for trouble shooting the ignition module and the other stuff. you know the base Ohms and voltage output of the components that would cause the car to run like this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Yeah, I get that. I try to be as cost-efficient as possible with cars, and typically prefer to buy them at the bottom of their depreciation curve. I was looking at those Bilsteins too as they're roughly in the same price bracket as the BC's - lack of adjustability and being soft put me off, not that I want anything too hard. That's my issue with the Skyline, it's too expensive and it's reflected in my driving. I don't mind going full pelt as long as there's a gravel trap to catch me. Really, proper safety equipment is needed for total confidence. Well this just turned up for the BMW. I'll try and get the front together tomorrow and take some pics of the absolutely horrid rear end; perhaps I'll have a crack at the rear on Wednesday. I need to make the car drivable before the weekend as I'll be driving it over to London.    
    • Orza81
      1993 TH1 Blue R32 Skyline GTR VSpec

      By Orza81 · Posted

      Hi SAU community  Wondering what my 93 Very RARE TH1 Blue R32 GTR VSpec is worth these days?? Build is fairly dated now All Mods are Compliance Approved  Runs RB26 done only 10000ks Greddy T88 done only 8000ks HKS Cam 1000cc Injectors Full Titanium Exhaust Nismo Intercooler Nismo Oil Cooler HKS Oil sump Tein Super Street Coils Cusco Sway Bars RAYS TE37 19x10.5 DYNO street tune makes around 700hp on 98octane  
    • r34.rory
      Hazards not working R34 GTT

      By r34.rory · Posted

      It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • JC71
      98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect

      By JC71 · Posted

      no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
×
×
  • Create New...