Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is anyone here running copper spark plugs and is there any reason you can"t. Im running 1.1mm iridiums at the moment but it has been suggested to me ( reputable tunner ) to run a 0.8 mm set of coppers because iridiums foul too easy. It's not that i dont trust him but I just want to know if there is anyone else has done the same and wondering if its a good option or not - thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147164-running-copper-plugs/
Share on other sites

Is anyone here running copper spark plugs and is there any reason you can"t. Im running 1.1mm iridiums at the moment but it has been suggested to me ( reputable tunner ) to run a 0.8 mm set of coppers because iridiums foul too easy. It's not that i dont trust him but I just want to know if there is anyone else has done the same and wondering if its a good option or not - thanks

My understanding is the Iridiums are recommended as they're meant to last a nice long time (somewhere around 100,000 kms). The fact is, as we're not running the recommended fuel for our machines (cos' it's not available), they run rich and foul the plugs much quicker than they should. Considering you're gonna have to clean them (which you shouldn't do with Iridiums - you remove the coating) or replace them, it's much cheaper to get coppers at ~~$25 then Iridiums at ~~$125. I change mine about every 20k... dunno what the recommended interval is, but by the time I pull them out to look at them I've replaced them anyway.

Oh, and copper conducts better then Iridium too.

Now, the recommended plug is a 1.1mm. If you need to go to a 0.8mm, it's cos the spark isn't strong enough (tired coils, more boost, etc. not allowing a proper spark across 1.1mm). That said, going to a 0.8mm is an easy way to fix problems - I do this on my 33. Probably the quickest fix if your machine is coughing & spluttering at high revs under boost.

Im using ngk irdiums aswell, also had them in my old car, never had any problems with them but then again i have never made decent power of used high boost levels etc.They cost me $80 nzd for a set/6.

Im running the standard gap (1.1mm) at the moment and the car seems to hesitate a little bit sometimes, maybe i should try gapping them down to 0.8mm and see if it makes things better, i have heard of lots of people doing this and had never had a problem so may give it a try.

Alot of questions answered here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/us30428.htm

Iridiums are just on the outside of the electrode with copper in the middle. Iridium, like platinum, is meant to resist fouling better than copper... apparently.

So correct me if i'm wrong but this is how I understand it, pure copper plus would in effect work better than any platinum/iridium plugs out there, but their life span is shorter than iridium/platinum.

So they'd be good for drags/trackwork/everyday work if you keep an eye on them and change them regurlarily?

Aparently Iridium is a barely natural occuring element on earth and most of the stuff we use was brought here by some big ass meteor ages ago.... kool.

I want some ruthenium plugs :P apparently used in plane engines...

BTW check this out, its pretty cool: http://www.4x4review.com/quads/tech/SparkPlugs.asp

long and the short of it

copper plugs= cheaper, do the same job as the iridiums, foul quicker

Iridium plugs=expensive, do the same job as the coppers, more resistant to fouling.

That sed tho, depending on your tune, the iridiums can be useless as they will eventually foul. All comes down to how much you like changing your plugs and playing with ur coilpacks.

Me i prefer not to tocuh the coils as little as possible and therefore use the iridiums but each to his own.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...