Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK weird question. I suck with electrics :laugh: Anyways, Did a RB20DET change after I blew my last one. I used a well known WA shop Mechanic who is extremely knowledgeable but I don't wish to let his name out. Slight problem, he was in a rush to take someone somewhere, and with my new battery, stickers covered - & +. Anyway, it was put in back to front (Completly accidental careless mistake). We though we had fried the LumpyROM but turns out it was the Ignitor Module. Anyway, I fixed it and drove sweet for 8 weeks. Sunday morning the car shutdown, and I had fried a battery. Now I'm wondering if my Alternator may have fried from the battery incedent? There has been no problems cutting out/starting it up. Headlights stay the same (but have replaced bulbs). Dash lights at night fade and flicker, indicators stay solid, RMP needle bounces off redline at like 3rpm and CD deck cuts out and comes back on. When I hit boost, it's like it chugs and starves for fuel. Could this be the alternator? I have a untuned ECU I know, but still shouldn't be cutting short. Just wondering as the light will come on for a flat battery, but won't if it's overcharging! Anyone got any idea's what could be going on?

Cheers, Jason

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147217-auto-electrician-need-one-possibly/
Share on other sites

You my have blown the diodes in the rectifier plate. Easiest way to tell what its doing is start the car up wack a multimeter on it and see if its charging, look for 13.8-14.2 volts. If its not charging id look for a replacement as finding parts could be difficult.

Just an idea,but to me if you had done damage after the battery incident it would of played up then not 8 weeks later... I've had very similar symptoms like the ones you describe on euro cars & 90% of the time its an earth problem-check the earth wire from block to chassis,maybe it has worked loose after the engine swap or check the battery leads for heat damage,as high resistance in the leads can cause trouble...

Hope this helps! :O

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...