Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

There are ppl putting r33\r34 fronts on stageas, so would you be able to do the reverse? (Stagea front on a r33)

stagea-autech.jpg

r33-1.jpg

What is involved with the front conversions to put skyline front on stagea? would it be pretty much the same process to do the stagea front on a skyline?

I just want to try and make a "unique" r33 which is damn hard to do.

Edited by R.B. Boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147279-stagea-front-on-r33/
Share on other sites

The Stagea shares a similar chassis number as the ER34, being WCGN34, so dimensionly they are similar, but not the same

The Stagea front end conversion to R34 GTR uses custom guards to go from the Stagea door shape to the R34 front and a R34 radiator panel which needs some work to fit, along custom brackets to mount bonnet

If you were going to try a Stagea front to a Skyline the best car would be a R34 not a R33

I am half way thru a Stagea front end conversion

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=137313

i rekon the stagea front is too square for the r33's roundness if u get what i mean. keep in mind tho i know sfa about stageas having never seen one in the metal b4.

either way i rekon that you would have achieved the impossible and create a unique 33 if u pull this off. keep us posted and good luck

In an attempt to make a r33 "unique"

Lots of other ways to make a 33 unique, but each to their own I guess. You might wanna get someone to photochop a stagea front on to a 33 before you even start. You don't want to blow all tht $$, time and effort and have an outcome that you're not happy with and make it even harder for you to sell when the time comes...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...