Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest SXU29T

just wanted to know your opinions on weather a jap spec s15 and a aus s15 with very similar mods be making the same power on 98 octane aus fuel, i know that jap models do run more boost then aus models 10psi to 8psi standard but if both the jap and the aus s15 have identical mods say exausht, filter and run identical boost say 14psi do you think that the import will still blo the aus spec? or will it be line ball?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14731-jp-spec-s15-vs-aus-spec-s15/
Share on other sites

Guest SXU29T

mine is an aus spec its just that my girlfriends friends boyfriend has a jap spec and wants to race me of the street that is! and i just want to know what im letting my self into. Ive also heard bout the different turbo thing but i think that all auto s15s lack the bbturbo and super helical lsd, ive also been told that aus spec r's and aus spec s's have diff turbos??? the former being bb? also heard that s2 s14's came with bbturbo std?

If you tune yours up SXU29T, you should be able to match a jap-spec one... the aussie one is just detuned.. replace a couple of small things and up the boost (you can go fair bit higher than 10) and it should be pretty equal.

Sneak in a PowerFC while you're at it to kick his butt :D

Guest Works Auto

Ive driven both aussy spec and jap spec and honestly on the road you can't feel any difference. there very similar.

The aussy spec still has a ball bearing turbo. I was also sure that the injectors were exactly the same and the power difference was in the more aggressive timing on the jap model.

I have been in both as well, and driven both, thou, one was a dealer car (the Aust. Spec)

The Jap Spec is much better car. The interior has nice extras, and there are a few differences.

ECU is suppose to be different for the jap higher spec fuel, the Aus Spec has 420cc inj. Jap Spec has 480cc inj. The exhaust is different I believe (evened out in mods, thou, I'd check the dump pipes on each if they haven't been changed.) Possible Gearbox, Diff and and standard clutch differneces. (gearbox and diff ratios i mean - esp diff.)

the 45 extra kilowats is noticable.

A bit.

Upgraded Carpet, factory boost gauge, TV optional, better stereo system, original "s" on the steering wheel, leather optional, climate control, a few other plasticy bits here and there.

  • 1 year later...

i think on the seats of the JDM s15 its say silvia on the seats

the main difference with the jap ones is they run a different fuel map and boost factory as weel, due to the higher 100 RON fuel in japan.

That would explain why a slightly moded jap spec will spank an aussie version with the same mods. however start changin the oz spec engine managment and u have the identical car!

also the jap spec ones lose value almost twice as fast due to being an *import*

but i don tknow personal opinon

im planing to buy one pretty soon

Jap spec has a rear wiper too, thats one of the main was to tell. I bought an Aus spec mainly because it was newer, had one owner, had FULL service history and because i knew the power difference would be slight but add an exhaust and a filter and you would make the same gains as the jap spec and be even(because Aus spec exhaust is more restrictive). Factory boost gauge on Jap spec doesnt look as good as a Greddy pillar and only holds one gauge, i didnt see much difference in interior between the two.

i think on the seats of the JDM s15 its say silvia on the seats

the main difference with the jap ones is they run a different fuel map and boost factory as weel, due to the higher 100 RON fuel in japan.  

That would explain why a slightly moded jap spec will spank an aussie version with the same mods. however start changin the oz spec engine managment and u have the identical car!  

also the jap spec ones lose value almost twice as fast due to being an *import*  

but i don tknow personal opinon

 

im planing to buy one pretty soon

I think you pretty much summed it up. So what you gona go for the aus or jdm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...