Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

No aftermarket temp gauges in my car. i think it reads either 0.60 or 0.50 on the comp cover. I took the heat shield off just to take those photos... I'll have to take more photos when i get around to taking the pipes off. There's no evidence of a fmic.

Regards,

Scott

btw adam32, what mods do you have and what power are you making?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-303885
Share on other sites

Get a few of the front and inside so you can count the number of blades etc.

Mine is making 198rwkw at 1bar with a FMIC and tune

Lets hope you have a 2510, they are awesome

Also, there should be a stamped garret tag near the oil feed, that tells you exactly what it is (unless its a highflow job)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-303956
Share on other sites

i have a t3/t4 on my 31 and it looks pretty tiny compared to mine, the likely hood of it being an hks item is very slim.Its probably a standard turbo with a steel wheel high flowed, and it looks like a roller bearing job.

rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-304230
Share on other sites

Well it doesn't have the compressor cover off a stocko turbo...so i'm assuming it's something different.

And greasemonkey from SDU said:

"thats not stock, i've ripped a couple off in my day and that thing is not stock. stock turbines have their intakes on the front face not up on top like that. coolant lines are way different too. as for what it is???? i cant help you out their"

Regards,

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-304235
Share on other sites

OK, on the tag it says Garret (i think) in the top right hand corner, in some logo thing. Then underneath that it says: Made in Japan. Then under that it reads (to the best i can understand):

17200-114100

UF 7042J

46701S-0021

There are also some numbers on the rusty bit of the turbo near the tag that are marked (i think):

H 3

67

H 3

075

Thanks,

Scott

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-306094
Share on other sites

dude the only way to find out if you have a steel or ceramic wheel is to look at it, there is no other way, unless you know it has never been pulled apart before, ceramic wheels usually look a little orangey where a steel wheel is black, use a mirror to see it after you pull the dump pipe of

rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14734-turbo-id/page/2/#findComment-306332
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...