Jump to content
SAU Community

Spitfires or settle for 215rwkw  

31 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I have a moderatly tuned RB20 with the following mods

Sliding performance hiflow rb25 turbo

GTR injectors

GTR fuelpump

3" turboback, split dump, metal 3" cat

remapped ecu, FMIC ect

I am having a miss when running anything over 16psi with the stock coils (suprise suprise)...

I have ngk copper v plugs gapped to 0.8

Currently with 16psi the car is making 215rwkw. If I wind up the boost to 19psi it will not miss the first 2 runs and it makes 230+rwkw. the car also feels quite a bit faster. after that it all goes to s*^t

Should I stick with 215 and stop spending money or shell out another $600 for spitfires and be able to run the full potential of the turbo and make around 230rwkw

Is 15 kw worth $600?

or should I gap the plugs down further?

put the car back on the dyno today and had bad results due to the coilpacks.

The car only made 204rwkw due to only being able to run 13psi. the car did manage to make 5200n tractive effort but was serverley hindered by missfire.

the afr was perfect on 12:1 from 4000 to redline. so that and the 10 votes for spitfires and none for stockers :/ I have ordered the spitfires.

Really hoping for a solid gain and ability to run 18psi. The funny thing is I was able to run 18 for about 3 weeks and the coils have gradually gotten worse.

the car made 230 before the coils fuc$%d out so thats all I am shooting for.

I wasted hundreds of dollars with secondhand coils and remote coil setups, none of which solved the problem.

Haven't had 1 miss since installing the splitfires

DOOOOO IT!

I found perfectrun to be the cheapest - $535 delivered

Edited by Lazy-Bastard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...