Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why does this always happen.

Just when i was getting into the C210, i find a C110 at a very good price, and which would cost me less to finish than th C210.

C110 already has - wheel flares, boot spoiler, it's a manual, and the body is arguably in better condition. It's also black which would mean much less cost for a respray. Wont have to do inside doors etc.

Damn! Any opinions? the C110 or C210. I'm thinking restore the C110, keep the C210 for a daily.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2803829
Share on other sites

C110 already has - wheel flares, boot spoiler, it's a manual, and the body is arguably in better condition. It's also black which would mean much less cost for a respray. Wont have to do inside doors etc.

Damn! Any opinions? the C110 or C210. I'm thinking restore the C110, keep the C210 for a daily.

If it's this one

http://carpoint.com.au/used-car/DATS...s/2252865.aspx

I'd do some careful checking with Motor Registration & maybe police before commiting to anything.

A member of Classic Zcar Club > CAR FORUMS > Datsun 240K has mentioned that he couldn't find either the Nissan body plate or the ADR plate even after searching through the boxes of bits.

Just might be nearly impossible to register in NSW!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2805867
Share on other sites

Thanks mate,

spoke with the guy your referring too this morning, and based on his opinion I will be staying away.

Besides from the whole compliance issue, that car is in much worse condition than what is made out in the add.

Cool, now on with the C210 and no more getting side tracked!

Just picked up a set of the early 240z twin carbs with manifold this morning. coming from queensland but not sure of the condition. Only $100 including delivery so not to fussed if not the best. I'll see what it'll cost to fix them, otherwise if in good nick they go straight on.

Edited by NISMO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2805914
Share on other sites

Hi again,

Got another question. I should be able to get my hands on an L28 from a 280z, but prob is I'm not sure exactly what condition it's in. The car it came from was a 260z which had an electrical prob, so it wouldn't start. The good news, is that it's come from a Z enthusiast who went to the trouble of swapping it into the car, and put the 240z carbs on it. It was also cranking over fine, just wouldn't fire.

Even if the motor is fine, I was thinking of doing the basics such as rings and bearings anyway.

Do I risk it?

Worse case scenario, what am i looking at to rebuild the thing?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2809065
Share on other sites

It was also cranking over fine, just wouldn't fire.

If it's still in a car, hotwire it! Disconnect wiring from coil +ve, wire direct from battery +ve to igition coil +ve, leave the ignition coil -ve wiring as is and crank it over. Should fire right up. Just disconnect battery +ve to stop.

Even if the motor is fine, I was thinking of doing the basics such as rings and bearings anyway.

Do I risk it?

Worse case scenario, what am i looking at to rebuild the thing?

Hard to pin down! If bores are good, so that at most a small ridge has to be removed and pistons can be re-used I've done it for less than $500.

btw, which city are you in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2811722
Share on other sites

Not too much to tell.

Having trouble finding an L26/L28 in sydney so, might se what the L24's got left in her. Going tomorrow to pick up electronic ignition.

So, not much progress, but progress none the less :-)

Cheers

Bobby

Have you tried contacting Sportsclasic Cars at Castlereigh (near Penrith)

www.sportsclassic.com.au

I'm pretty sure he'll have some to choose from, last time I was there he had a nice mildly worked injected L28...

Edited by frogman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147444-c210-gtr/page/2/#findComment-2811808
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...