Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at dropping in an RB25DET into my R32 (the RB20 just isnt cutting it anymore) and I'm curious of opinions on which swap is more recommended.

The way I see it, the Neo6 would be nice because it supposedly has a little stonger bottom end, has solid lifters, dual throttle bodies and that sweet looking cover... but what about the wiring? I've been told it can be a nightmare due to the lack of ABS, TCS, etc. on my R32. Would I just be hacking and slashing the Neo loom with my RB20 loom as per the usual R33 RB25 (series 1 or 2, doesnt matter) swap?

Or should I just stick with the series 2 RB25? is the neo that much harder to drop in that it's not worth the effort? I have a chance to get a Neo6 for 500$ more than a series2 which is why it's causing such a dilema.

I'm aiming for 300-330rwkw, would there be any disadvantages to either of the RB25 choices?

I've tried searching here and sdu for an answer on what's required on the swap but so far no luck. nobody really has dropped a neo6 into an hcr32 and posted about it.

basically I understand for the neo6 swap, I will need...

1) engine, trans (i plan on puting out more power than the rb20 gearbox can handle), loom, ecu.

2) lots of time for wiring changes

3) custom tailshaft made up (a friend of mine makes them for a living, not really an issue here :()

4) custom gearbox mount

5) ... anything else?

well, that's about all for my questioning... sorry for so many but unlike you guys in the great land of Australia, I can't really walk into a local speed shop and shoot the shit about this. Usually if i mention a skyline, the first thing the people say is "oh! is that one of those cars with the wheel on the wrong side?!" :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/147646-neo6-or-series2-into-r32/
Share on other sites

Assuming that the Neo6 is the RB25DET NEO, you will also need:

5) Crank angle sensor

I have read somewhere on another forum that due to limitations with something in the RB25DET NEO, it is difficult to obtain more than 280kw without a rebuild, but i can't confirm this.

BTW, you can always buy that cover off somewhere if you're just after the look ^_^

Assuming that the Neo6 is the RB25DET NEO, you will also need:

5) Crank angle sensor

I have read somewhere on another forum that due to limitations with something in the RB25DET NEO, it is difficult to obtain more than 280kw without a rebuild, but i can't confirm this.

BTW, you can always buy that cover off somewhere if you're just after the look ^_^

thanks for the info! i can understand the head needing work due to softer valve springs (solid lifters usually come hand-in-hand with soft valve springs) but i thought the bottom end was beefier, anybody else know about this issue of 280kw?

as for just the cover... i quite like the plenum design as well :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...