Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On average about 400km.

This involves a 10km roundtrip to work which has 14 sets of lights and probably 30km of freeway driving/week.

My best is up around 535km (Cessnock Cruise afew weeks back) or so but i almost ran my lil biatch dry :bahaha:

I always seem to fill up with around 57-62L

I run my car on 7psi boost with 186rwkw and hit speed and rev limiters often :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14782-how-far-on-a-tank/#findComment-299368
Share on other sites

Yeah I usually get about 450km's on a full tank. Mind you, I never really let it go till the light comes on. I did an oil and filter change a couple of weeks ago and my 2 tanks since then have been better. I've hit 400kms with 1/4 of a tank (according to the guage) to go. I suppose it really depends on a lot of things like how hard you drive it, how you use the gears or overdrive, freeway driving vs stop-start, type of petrol you use etc. etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14782-how-far-on-a-tank/#findComment-299478
Share on other sites

Originally posted by benm

Thats coz its your new toy and your still scared of it :bahaha:

After a while you'll be stuck into the boost at 16-18-20 psi and you can watch the fuel guage drop visibly...

I'm similar to Ben, bit heavier due to more mods, more pressure and I have my right foot buried in the firewall.

400km if lucky.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14782-how-far-on-a-tank/#findComment-301162
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention in my post that I've got a stock auto... Probably how I come out with such good averages. I generally only use Optimax these days, but have tried all the other premium (98 octane) fuels around. BP Ultimate seems to be ok all round and the Mobil version gives good performance, but not as good economy. Optimax is the best all round in my view. If I "ran my lil biatch dry", I'm sure I'd be around 500 a tank. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14782-how-far-on-a-tank/#findComment-301185
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...