Jump to content
SAU Community

How Far on a Tank

Spiderman

By Spiderman,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

BP 98 does smell nicer with the exhaust

as well as giving a noticable touch more kick in my car

than the Optimax which seems better suited to low revving V8's than high revving turbo six since the BP98 has a lower specific gravity. Perhaps a finer mist, for a quicker burn, with a slightly higher octane preventing premature ignition and knock.

My test drives done with the standard s2 computer.

- I'm picking up a Microtech LTX12 auto computer tomorrow or on the weekend, will be tuned to BP98.

Cake Mentor

Cake

Posted
Posted

i have got 480km out of a full tank, but i filled up as soon as the fuel light came on at 480. it seems to sit on E for ages then finally the fuel light comes on. on this tank, it's been all city driving, and fairly hard driving some of it, including 6 runs at the motorplex (drags).. and ive so far got 450 km out of this tank, and the fuel light hasn't come on yet, but it's sitting on E :D only engine mod i have is catback exhaust

Majanal Grand Master

Majanal

Posted
Posted

Well I get anywhere between 525 and 575 depending on the number of Comondoors that I have to put in their places!!!

That is an average of 10L/100kms

Best 8.6L/100kms (Recent trip to Batemans Bay)

Worst 26L/100kms - Team Track Day!

I use Optimax.

Hope this helps.

dAVE Grand Master

dAVE

Posted
Posted

The BEST I ever got was 450.. that was driving at ~ 120km per hour for the whole tank (from brisbane to melbourne)...

the WORST I ever got was 140km... that was some very hard driving :O

After changing my fuel filter, I am now getting about 400 a tank, which is fanging it for the 1st half, then realising i have no money, so taking it easy on the 2nd half..

Btw, my car runs 8psi to 4500rpm and 10psi over that.. has pod, ecu and zorst (173rwkw). It also has a higher ratio diff, which I would think would be the main factor in my shit fuel economy (100km/h in 5th is 3100rpm.. compared to std of 2700 rpm)

edit: thats using BP Ultimate (always) and I usually fill about 55-60l.

ZERO Experienced

ZERO

Posted
Posted

i get approx 100km per quarter or per bar... though it seems the first bar lasts longer usually 150 and second, third goes quicker only 50kms and the fourth last long too but usually averages 400kms. just running shell optimax. it was a killer when petrol prices was high...

also i guess it depends on wat mods u got on ur car... high boost low boost... how big ur zorst is, how ur ecu is tuned etc etc...

Liquid Collaborator

Liquid

Posted
Posted

according to my trip computer thingy mine is burning about 14.8L/100km ... thats been measured over the last 750km or there abouts. I commute from home to the city each day basically.

My car's baiscally stock.. mabye i should get it tuned or something...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 89GTR_VA
      Crank/No Start - R32 GTR Chassis with R34 RB26

      By 89GTR_VA · Posted

      Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • GTSBoy
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • PranK
      The New Official S A U - N S W Spotted Thread

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...