Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have a grand to spend on a system for a r33 (2 door). i listen to mainly rnb/hiphop and house, so bass is important and so to vocals.

dont know much about sound systems, you guys point me in the right direction?

the car has come with a sony xplode head unit and sony xplode 6x9s or some other size speakers not to sure, in the back, but i have heard that sony car system stuff is terrible, and should get rid of it if i am planning to get a decent system.

bass is very important, so i need 2 subs ! 12" i guess? do i need 2 subs for more bass? will 2 fit in a boot of an r33? but remember i also want good sound quality

what do you guys say i should get? whats the go?

which headunit, amp, sub/s, splits/tweeters, 6x9s? do i need 6x9s (somone said it mixes with the subs so it sounds crapper, dunno though)

thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148274-1000-budget-for-sound-system/
Share on other sites

if u just like bass then stick with the speakers u already have, filter out all the bass from them if ur headunit can do it

get a nice monoblock amp and a couple of subs n u'll do fine

i might be selling 2 brand new pioneer 400w rms dual voice coil subs if ur interested

If you go for entry level components, you should be able to get a system for a grand.

Headunit, $300 - simple pioneer maybe, one preout for amp

Amplifier, $300 - something with a bit of grunt for bass

12" Sub + enclosure, $200

Front speakers $100

Rear 6x9's $100

Won't be the best system, but if $1k is your budget, ya cant go overboard.

If you go for entry level components, you should be able to get a system for a grand.

Headunit, $300 - simple pioneer maybe, one preout for amp

Amplifier, $300 - something with a bit of grunt for bass

12" Sub + enclosure, $200

Front speakers $100

Rear 6x9's $100

Won't be the best system, but if $1k is your budget, ya cant go overboard.

yeh sounds like bang for buck, its all i need, cheers mate

i live in Melbourne

melbourne? I got a full alpine system (cept for the head unit, which is a sony unit) for around a grand (or maybe just a bit more). 4 speakers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, 1 amp and 1 sub. PM SXR (ray from re customs) - they are authorised alpine dealers.

melbourne? I got a full alpine system (cept for the head unit, which is a sony unit) for around a grand (or maybe just a bit more). 4 speakers, 2 tweeters, 2 crossovers, 1 amp and 1 sub. PM SXR (ray from re customs) - they are authorised alpine dealers.

So there's ya proof you can get a system for approx $1000. Don't let a salesman tell you to go away and come back with 3-4 thousand!

Not sure what stores you have over there, but over here i keep an eye on Tonkins catalogues, Strathfield, etc - and with christmas sales coming up, you should be able to get a good deal on your package.

So there's ya proof you can get a system for approx $1000. Don't let a salesman tell you to go away and come back with 3-4 thousand!

Not sure what stores you have over there, but over here i keep an eye on Tonkins catalogues, Strathfield, etc - and with christmas sales coming up, you should be able to get a good deal on your package.

it depends on where you go to get your stuff. plus i kept my headunit that came with the car, cos it was running well. And I also got a good deal on the products - without the deal I would be looking at around 1.5 - 2k i think - plus there are other brands (other than alpine) which are more expensive..... so what Chris said was right - there are some brands where you can expect to pay 3-4k for the best of the range.....and this might include labour as well.

p.s - alpine have the top of the range audio equipment too - that can go to about 3k all up....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...