Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nah sam, 1st time there if i remember correctly. something to do with the fact that since his ebc wasnt working properly the was allowed to drive off without paying a cent but will pay full amount when he get a tune with a working ebc. wierd.

nah, its still here. i cant get the work done until i can borrow my sisters car. shes on holidays atm. so once shes back at uni, i'll drop the skyline off and borrow her pulsar.

are you still in the process of gathering parts?

i drove it a few times. Gearbox is very funny in terms of shifting to say the least. But it has tidal waves of torque compared to the line. s2000 is a different story - it has an awesome gearbox. Shifting is go slick and fun in that car.

Bachelor of IT.

I'm in my 3rd year so yer exams suck. :(

Especially J2EE - Internet Computing.

I'm a fiddler. I only 'try' to improve upon the current cheap $100 tune I had.

I found that when changing gear or simply flattening it the map trace was dipping to load point 20 then once accelerating settling on load point 19 through the rev range.

This load 20 point was running ever so slightly too much timing as it was causing highish knock readings.

I reduced load point 20 by one degree and left load point 18-19 the way it was and knock went from 35 down to 17.

So.. I dialed in another degree in to load points 18-19 and found knock didn't rise.

That 1 degree makes it feel more lively, but only makes throttle control that little bit harder in second.

Basically through the mid range its now running 17degree's instead of its previous 16 and in some parts 15.

These new tyres don't hook up though. :)

I bought some Firenza ST-03's.

If I don't ease my foot in to it second axle tramps majorly. :D

My subframe bushes are screwed, first things first during the holidays, I'm going to fit some pineapples, hopefully it will stop the subframe from slopping about and help with traction a little.

If I still get too much movement, over the X-mas holidays I'm going to drop the subframe and fit a set of new subframe bushes from Noltec ($190 from Unique Autosports).

Maybe, a big MAYBE fit a S13 3.9:1 diff as to help the rb30 get that little more speed from each gear.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...