Jump to content
SAU Community

SA Wasteland?

MM2death

By MM2death,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted
ill be taking it easy for a bit, while im running the engine in anyways. what steps did you follow to run your engine in cubes?
Quite contentious, can't say whether I'd follow this advice or not, but it's certainly food for thought. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And on a totally unrelated note here's some pictures...

bowhunt1.jpg

bowhunt2.jpg

bowhunt3.jpg

bowhunt4.jpg

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
Posted

:D

interesting stuff hey. they say if you dont run the engine hard the rings wont bed in properly. i suppose motorcycle engines would have to be similar to the running in of a car engine. coincidentaly the pistons ill be using are CP forged ones, and they make the majority of there parts to suit motorcycles.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Sambo33,

I was conservative and hung off before taking the jump to synthetic.

I used Penrite run-in oil for the first 1500km's, did 3 oil and filter changes.

One after a couple hundred then the other 2 every 600-700 or so.

I then ran Motul Motion 10w30 Mineral oil until the motor clocked up 10,000km's.

Within the 8500km's I did 2 oil changes, each at ~4000-5000km's.

I then went to Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40.

With regards to how the car was driven, I wired open the wastegate so I could get plenty of load on the motor without boost flicking up to 10psi and creating to much load.

The car went on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing, I rev'd it to 3500rpm and drove with a flat foot everywhere for the first ~1000km's.

After that I began to rev it a little more ~5000rpm.

I only had it tuned and boost hooked back up once i got synthetic and the PFC in to the car which was at 10,000km's.

So it had lots and lots of time for the rings to bed in and properly as I could get a nice amount of load in to her.

Even though I'm running the largest recommended bore to piston clearance for 24+psi and race use it uses zero oil and has no oil in the intake piping.

It did use a little oil and had oil in the intake piping up until around 1,500km's.

It has slight piston slap on cold starts but goes away very quickly. :D

I was told by the engine builder not to jump in to synthetic too quickly as by doing so can only cause harm, not doing so won't cause any harm but only potentially good.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I've bought a few bits in the past week or so, GTR injectors (good for ~270rwkw on std fuel pressure) and a vg30det turbo that I have the exhaust housing machined up to suit a GT30 600hp CHRA and .7 comp cover. :D

I've attached a map trace for those that are fiddlers like myself.

Its also time for another oil change.

I've decided to go with the heavier Castrol 10w60 over the Motul 8100 5w40.

I went a K&N Oil filter over the PureOne this time as i'm tired of skinning my knuckles trying to remove the old sucker. :cheers:

My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :)

Deluxe Grand Master

Deluxe

Posted
Posted
My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).  

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :wave:

They just don't understand.... Do they! How much better is ya car just after a oil change, which reminds me I'm just about due too!!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Oil change.. :wave:

Feels the same to be honest, it didn't use a drop of oil and there was no nasty's in either the filter or the bottom of the drain pan.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
where can you get the oil cooler and filter kit for $175 i woudl like to know. cheapest ive seen is $350 complete kit.

Sorry $350. lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=81255

I had just finished looking at the IC for $175. :rofl:

Maxx Veteran

Maxx

Posted
Posted
Oil change.. :rofl:

Feels the same to be honest.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

i got a Earl's oil cooler coming on early August which i don't need now... crazy1.gif

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...