Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

id go with whatever gives me the most torque and if im not wrong the 25/30 comes 1st in this department followed by the 25det.

is that turbotech bleedvalve your using the same one as what is/was being sold on these forums? they work an absolute treat. alot better then my ebc, suprisingly.

yeah prob 25/30 but i love the gtr engine torques good but i still want ti to rev out just a little bit... not like a rb30et.

anyways yeah the turbotech it is works a treat

The RB30 does rev (refer to Bu5ters) BUT you need to run a nice big turbo and nice manifold otherwise you will pretty much always make your peak power between 5000-5500rpm. :woot:

Sky30's is a prime example of this. Huge GT35R turbo yet it still only makes its peak around 5500rpm, he dropped 260duration cams in it and made ZERO difference to where peak power is made. An exhaust manifold that can handle the flow (rather than the stock log item) is needed, sure you can dial in more boost to make more power but the peak rpm power is only going to become shorter and shorter.

Have any of you seen silloute88's 3rd gear burnouts? If that aint reving what is... :thanks:

That is making slightly approx 230rwkw I think it was on 12psi.. Would have to double check that, he said it pulls ard all the way to 7500rpm.

BUT he is running a nice turbo and manifold setup.

Then if you consider flicking it past 7000-7500rpm you want to make sure you have a proengines oil pump drive crank collar fitted and possibly an ATI balancer.

But this is the same for an r32 RB26 also. If you want to rev it and not break oil pumps you need either the crank collar or an R33 gtr crank.

yeah ur right ive seen 88silos burnouts marks a big part of r31club aswell. lol

im happy to rev up to 7. all in the future the main thing was that i was happy with my result on 1bar and that it could make alot more with boost raised to whatever is safe

Edited by r31turbo

car would weigh 1400 tops as ive been trying to save weight whereva possible... removed hicas + abs + alot of other crap... im trying to get it to 1300 ill have to weigh it

i hold my car in high regard as even though i know r31s arent everyones cup of tea i am an enthusiast and i paid alot for this car over a r33 and over importing and complying a 32gtr.

Edited by r31turbo
Hey thats great to hear

yeah tis good, but theres so much shit wrong with it, got some rust

the interior looks shit as, got no key for it :P , needs new shockers

needs all windows replaced, coz they've all got yellow paint on em

probably has alot more wrong with it but yeah, i'm gonna have no

money left :

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...