Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that looks killer man. Who'd you go through for the importing?

I've imported it myself, was introduced to an Adelaide bloke, who works for a dealer over there, while he was back here for Christmas and went from there. Hes actually part owner of Kansai Automotive, and his family is heavily involved with the car scene here in Adealide. Not sure if i should give out his contact details as hes basically in direct competition to SAU sponsors, but if anyone wants help importing a car by themselfs let me know and i should be able to guide you along nicely =D

and thanks everyone else, hopefuly i'll be able to go for my first cruise and meet lots more of you on the 28th/29 of this month =)

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

doh, always thought it was safer to tune on a low-30deg day.

Not sure if Shaun shares the same view. Its only an observation I've made through my own multiple tunes, friends cars and how mine reacted on the stock ecu when pushing 1bar. Consistently the same. Cold Tune FTW, hot day tune FTL.

BF2.. I haven't been on much as the computer as crapped it. :spank:

Spending too much on the car as of late so the computer can hold off. :3some:

Thats HAWT!!! Fishpaste :3some:

How long did it take to come over??

I might be looking at importing one myself, as cant really find anything I like here already :spank:

It was purchased late in January (but had already been passed in at auction once), so from when the car was first found to when it arrived was less than 3 months, and it'll be just over 3 months when its on the road =)

if your looking for someone to help you find one, let me know and i'll get you his contact details.. in the middle of writing up a big "how to import guide" ATM so that may also help you out =)

does importing a rally/race only car cost less or does it only cost less because you dont have to comply it

like im thinking a full drift spec ceffy

yeah madaz, if you take a look at the import101.com import calculator (you have to sign up to get access to it) you can see that all the SEVS and rego and other related costs to the whole getting it on the road bit are $0. so that is where you get the savings from, but from memory you do have to have a CAMS licence of some paticular type to import under race and rally.

does importing a rally/race only car cost less or does it only cost less because you dont have to comply it

like im thinking a full drift spec ceffy

I know where there is a cheapish Ceffy and its got all the set up :3some:

Let me know if you want any details

It was purchased late in January (but had already been passed in at auction once), so from when the car was first found to when it arrived was less than 3 months, and it'll be just over 3 months when its on the road =)

if your looking for someone to help you find one, let me know and i'll get you his contact details.. in the middle of writing up a big "how to import guide" ATM so that may also help you out =)

yeah madaz, if you take a look at the import101.com import calculator (you have to sign up to get access to it) you can see that all the SEVS and rego and other related costs to the whole getting it on the road bit are $0. so that is where you get the savings from, but from memory you do have to have a CAMS licence of some paticular type to import under race and rally.

Thanks

Im looking at all avenues at the moment,will let you know if im really serious about importing one my self

Thats not bad 3 month turn around

Im looking at all avenues at the moment,will let you know if im really serious about importing one my self

Thats not bad 3 month turn around

what was even more amazing was that i was having tea with the dealer here in adelaide on a tuesday (as hes originally from here and was back in adealide for christmas) and that friday he was ringing me to get the go ahead for the car!!!

so its almost literaly 3 months from the decision to buy the skyline to getting it =)

not sure cubes he said he would swap it with gtst but gtst have hicas too so im not sure whats different about mine

but he was willing me me to come and see him tomorrow to sort it out

can highly reccomend ISC on after sales service and i wasnt the orriginal purchaser very good buisness ethics

I know you might all call me a geek for this but I don't care! :thumbsup: Just came back from dinner with Avery Brooks (Captain Sisko) and Barry Jenner (Admiral Ross) from Star Trek: DS9. Both awesome fellas, had a great night, just had to share... and yes, I'm a trekkie!!! :santa:

post-21349-1177246628.jpg

Edited by heslo
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...