Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

seems we had a gig up in the party pit at work last night for clipsal.

so im thinking jarad may've been there?

sounded like it was pretty fun, its always great dealing funny money games, you get to f**k around and be a complete idiot all whilst being paid for it.

so pissed i wasnt rostered to work it, i loved the last function :D

seems i may finally be moving out of this hell hole of a house soon aswell, awesome!

means my skyline purchase might be put off for another year or so though, *sigh*

seems we had a gig up in the party pit at work last night for clipsal.

so im thinking jarad may've been there?

sounded like it was pretty fun, its always great dealing funny money games, you get to f**k around and be a complete idiot all whilst being paid for it.

so pissed i wasnt rostered to work it, i loved the last function :D

seems i may finally be moving out of this hell hole of a house soon aswell, awesome!

means my skyline purchase might be put off for another year or so though, *sigh*

Ohhhh noooo scandyflick!!

What happened to the soara?

Morn' all i so love not being @ work :D

was just looking around for some ideas for other peoples sigs and came across this might be a spoiler but anyway, just a message of think before we type makes a world of difference

1. Keyboard Warrior

...4. Keyboard Warriors are generally identified by unnecessary rage in their written communications, and are regarded as 'losers' by other virtual identities on the internet.

Has anyone changed the clutch on their 33 (or 32 with 25 box) and can provide some guidance? My clutch is showing signs of saying farewell, and I would like to give it a go myself but have never changed a clutch. Is there special tools needed (aligning tool?) and would it be possible to do it without a hoist? Also, removing the flywheel for machining, how hard is this? and how long would my car be out of action?

I tried to search the DIY section, found some help, but would like to know if anyone local would mind lending some advice and some help possibly :D

Cheers

Morn' all i so love not being @ work :D

was just looking around for some ideas for other peoples sigs and came across this might be a spoiler but anyway, just a message of think before we type makes a world of difference

<a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=keyboard+warrior" target="_blank">1. Keyboard Warrior

...4. Keyboard Warriors are generally identified by unnecessary rage in their written communications, and are regarded as 'losers' by other virtual identities on the internet.</a>

Maz, :0

I am not a keyboard warrior, I am actually the total opposite and proud of it!!

Has anyone changed the clutch on their 33 (or 32 with 25 box) and can provide some guidance? My clutch is showing signs of saying farewell, and I would like to give it a go myself but have never changed a clutch. Is there special tools needed (aligning tool?) and would it be possible to do it without a hoist? Also, removing the flywheel for machining, how hard is this? and how long would my car be out of action?

I tried to search the DIY section, found some help, but would like to know if anyone local would mind lending some advice and some help possibly :nyaanyaa:

Cheers

You'll need a couple of long extension bars for those top gearbox bolts, clutch aligning tool, 2 hydraulic jacks, some rope, spanners, sockets, needle nose plyers or sirclip removers and a mate to give you a hand.

I drain the gearbox oil, remove the tail shaft from the rear of the gearbox, disconnect speedo drive all plugs remove the shifter (via inside the car), starter motor etc

Shove one jack under the rear of the gearbox and tie it up so it won't slip off while rotating the gearbox. One jack up front to help take some weight.

Drop the rear of the gearbox slightly so you can get at the top bell housing bolts easier, remove all bolts then get either side, slide the box out a little, rotate clockwise so the starter lump clears the floor pan and then slide it out while slowly lowering the jacks. ;)

Leave the box under the car and as it is. Remove old clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel faced if you wish and replace spiggot bush (pack the crank end full of grease and use a suitably sized socket and small extension bar + hammer to get the old out)

Smack in the new spiggot, attach flyweel remembering to locktight the bolts.

Loosly bolt up the new clutch, slide the clutch aligning tool in, tighten up the pressure place bolts then slide the gearbox in doing the opposite of what you did to remove it.

Refill with oil. I think thats it. :nyaanyaa:

EDIT: And always plan an escape route incase you drop the box. :D

You'll need a couple of long extension bars for those top gearbox bolts, clutch aligning tool, 2 hydraulic jacks, some rope, spanners, sockets, needle nose plyers or sirclip removers and a mate to give you a hand.

I drain the gearbox oil, remove the tail shaft from the rear of the gearbox, disconnect speedo drive all plugs remove the shifter (via inside the car), starter motor etc

Shove one jack under the rear of the gearbox and tie it up so it won't slip off while rotating the gearbox. One jack up front to help take some weight.

Drop the rear of the gearbox slightly so you can get at the top bell housing bolts easier, remove all bolts then get either side, slide the box out a little, rotate clockwise so the starter lump clears the floor pan and then slide it out while slowly lowering the jacks. ;)

Leave the box under the car and as it is. Remove old clutch and flywheel, have the flywheel faced if you wish and replace spiggot bush (pack the crank end full of grease and use a suitably sized socket and small extension bar + hammer to get the old out)

Smack in the new spiggot, attach flyweel remembering to locktight the bolts.

Loosly bolt up the new clutch, slide the clutch aligning tool in, tighten up the pressure place bolts then slide the gearbox in doing the opposite of what you did to remove it.

Refill with oil. I think thats it. :nyaanyaa:

EDIT: And always plan an escape route incase you drop the box. :D

Cheers for that cubes!

Do you do this in your shed with the car on Jack stands, or is a hoist really more necessary?

Also, where can you get a flywheel machined southern suburbs, and any idea of cost?

Cheers!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...