Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i service my car every 5000km with Royal Purple 10W40 and ALWAYS warm up my car before i drive and ALWAYS cool it of for 3 min before i turn it off.. so these precautions should maximise turbo life...

I want to stick to BB highflow cause of quality, longer life as well as proven earlier spool which is what makes it more streetable...

im still waiting on Trooper to PM me the specs and price for this new bolt-on Turbo from Garrett...

One more thing guys, you think its work upgrading the stock manifold and cams?? how much increase would they give with a decent high flow?

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

your manifold is fine tho you may get fast spool with a

stainless tuned length job but for the outlay of a good

quality not really worth it i think , looks pretty for a little

while tho, and cams you could get some tomei's good idea

if planing around 260rwkw up ,will give you better response, but being a

hightflow and BB wont be very laggy ,but you will have good mid

to top with cams, you can alsways do cams later idown the track anyway.

thats my 50c. :(

Cheers

Yea thats my exact thought too.. can do the cams later on if needed... my list goes as the following:

- Highflow BB turbo/Garret bolt-on

- Apexi PFC + Tune

- Eboost 2 (or any decent EBC)

- Z32 AFM

- SARD 600cc Injectors

- Tomei Fuel Pump (was considering Walbro 255lt/h)

- Just jap FMIC Kit (painted black)

Anything that im missing?

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E

on a related note, would it be safe pushing the stock internals around 260 - 280rw/kw?

Please comment on the parts i have listed above if you guys recommend anything else...

Cheers

many people have made more than 260rwks with the mods u have indicated without having to change internals. When u approach the 300rwks mark, then ud def need to strengthen ur bottom end, ie pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft.

Yea thats my exact thought too.. can do the cams later on if needed... my list goes as the following:

- Highflow BB turbo/Garret bolt-on

- Apexi PFC + Tune

- Eboost 2 (or any decent EBC)

- Z32 AFM

- SARD 600cc Injectors

- Tomei Fuel Pump (was considering Walbro 255lt/h)

- Just jap FMIC Kit (painted black)

Anything that im missing?

Cheers

Hey,

I pretty much have these exact mods except 555cc injectors and profec BII and GCG hiflow. was having pinging problems dude to bad fuel, i had to add octane booster to compensate.

Be good to compare though, even though different car blah blah blah.

Think i saw you yesterday going down cowpasture road.. i was in the white R33.

Currently have bout 180rw/kw and aiming for 250+rw/kw

Hahaha yea that was me... were you in the White R32 heading toward cecil hills? hehehe should organise a cruse or just a friendly meet...

Edited by QRI05E

Ahhh yes i remember... hehehe was hoping you would give it a squirt to give you a run... ur car seemed stock lol... wat sort of power figures you got at the wheels? and who did your work for you??

Cheers

yeah i like keeping my car looking stock.. catch a few unsuspecting foes. Plus if i get owned hard, i can say yeah my car is stock.. hahaha i would have given it abit but being double demerits and all i had to restrain myself.

Tuned by Unigroup Engineering, 240rwkw on 16psi. gonna take it back when i get some good fuel in there hopefully i can get abit more power.

thanks man, nah my knock sensor would have been flashing at me.. so you would have beaten me.. hhaha. It runs fine when i put V-power racing in it.. but when i put BP ultimate it pings badly.. i drove up to the shell there to get VPR but they were out of stock so i went back to BP to get ultimate, when i pulled out, that's when you saw me.

Gave it a hit on the way home and the light was flashing.. it was tuned on BP ultimate as well.

haven't taken it to wsid yet.. wanna sort out this pinging problem first.

Damn those British and their Petrol :D I always use V-Racing or Vortex... my car seems to dislike Ultimate too

Well ill be getting Adam at JEM to tune my car and i have seen some ANIMAL R33's step off his dyno... so i cant wait to do it all...

Cheers

good luck man, i heard JEM do great things..

Definately keep me up to date with how you go.

Oh i had to get new coilpacks as well as i couldn't boost past 10psi before without misfiring... There's always something!! but the car made 220rwkw on 10psi.. now no misfire but damn fuel problems!!

Definately hook up for cruise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...