Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a question to all you EVO owners?

I have driven more than my fair share of nearly the whole range of EVO's to know how awsome they are. But I have not driven nor been in a tiptronic version. (These were only relesed in EVO 7). Just wondering if any of you guys have one or have been in one with tiptronic. and if so is it as much of a let down as the R34 tiptronic (dont mean to offend any tiptronic R34 owners, but being a manual driver, the tiptronic doesnt impress IMO)

Jump on evolutionoz.net and ask on there. There are a couple of guys with them. Better still, search on there. They came with some cool goodies like sat nav too.

There don't seem to be any complaints from the owners with them but definately jump on there and register is my advice. :nyaanyaa:

I know the EVO 7 'tiptronic' is called the EVO VII GT-A....some times nickanmed the EVO 7 1/2. Thats all i know about that. :P

But do what Al said above, and try the guys @ www.evolutionoz.net

yeah, but im looking at getting it for the missus due to the fact she cant drive manual. Bloody useless

That's not an excuse mate. Mine tried the same so spent several Sunday afternoons around Port Melbourne with her. Hey Presto, she can now drive a manual! My g/f wants a new mini so the deal was she had to get a manual one (she likes the way they are driven in The Italian Job). I also need her current car for my cycling as the seats in the Evo don't fold down. She spent 3 years telling me she couldnt drive a manual and couldnt co-ordinate the pedals etc too.

Don't give in to Auto pressure is my 2c. Be patient and find somewhere quiet and nice on a Sunday and she will pick it up. :(

GT-A is pretty rare too.

But seriously - why spend Evo coin on a car you'll wish you could row yourself?

If you want a zippy 4-door - buy an auto WRX and get local dealer support into the mix (GT-A tranny was not offered on any other Aus delivered Mitsubishi - at least with the 5 and 6 speed imports, you have locally backed cars with the same components)

Or as Alan says - driving a manual is hardly difficult, send her to this site: http://shiftyworld.com/

I was looking at prices of EVO VIIs the other day... is 41k about right for a stocker 2001?

Sounds a bit high to me...

Reason i ask is Dad is coming over from NZ and he just sold his business... rather then loose heaps on the exchange rate im going to get him to buy a car in NZ with the money and import it over here... once its here, get it on the road and sell it.

And in the mean time have some fun with it until its sold :laugh:

Thinking either:

EVO7 or 8 (no 7.5, couldnt do it, even tho theres heaps of them in NZ)

99 Autech 260RS Stagea

1997-98 Supra

Evo 6 TM Edition

1999 Mitsi GTO TT (last resort... hes already owned one)

1999 Mazda RX7 Series 8

Evo 7s start in NZ at around 24k-30k so i should be able to get one landed and on the road for around 32kAUD? Cheapest EVO 8 i saw was 30kNZD and would be about 38kAUD on the road

http://www.autotrader.co.nz/desktopdefault...asImage_Int32|1

41K is way to high for a VII. I would be looking between 33-36. I paid 36K for mine back in early June and know of several others for the price window mentioned.

41K would be getting you an VIII MR roughly.

HTH :D

hes changed his mind now and is investing some of it... so i dont get to have fun in an EVO :)

might have to settle for a 2000 Legnum/Galant VR4 or an R34 GTT... will have to see whats available.

is it as much of a let down as the R34 tiptronic (dont mean to offend any tiptronic R34 owners, but being a manual driver, the tiptronic doesnt impress IMO)

Have u actually driven a tiptronic GTT?

Why do ou say they are they a let down?

I have driven several tipronic cars and the GTT was by far the best.

Obviously manual is way better, but a good box all the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...